Good info, thanks! I ended up pulling the trigger on a dv6 even if it doesn’t have filters.
Tried to get some old single fsesc’s running just to test and mess areas with but I suspect my mini usb cable is garbage so ordered a new one. Couldn’t get detection to work on anything and the fw is pre 5.2 so idk.
Wanted to mess around with the spare parts popsicle deck i was messing with and realized I didn’t have any small 10s batteries but i did have some serious surplus cells from my leftovers pile so i whipped up a quick pack to fit the enclosure i made while procrastinating this build. They are all matching - was a scope change that left them unused. Don’t judge the tape and fish paper - it was all from my scrap pile and I didn’t get pictures of the fully insulated or mid points. Went too quick
Good test to get my kweld calibration dialed for all the batteries in the que right now. Looked for a used kweld but they are just too good. Really impressed with the ease of use. Took less then 8 tests to get good welds
Broke down and just got a dv6s for the esc, enclosure showing up today but i had a minute to do a little update here:
Using a 10s battery im repairing for a friend i cobbled together a tape and Velcro mockup and started playing with the settings to see what i can get to drive it without sensors.
So ya… if i understand hfi and i dont my ld-lq differential isnt high enough to make a go of hfi. Basically my Motor inductance is high but the change as the motor rotates (ldlq?) is small. Too small to make it work even at max injection voltage… or the max im willing to set it at with my very basic knowledge on the subject. The best plot I could get was garbo and only just started to look like a trend vs a scatter at my highest starting voltage.
Cogging to say the least, if it would even spin up. Tried shfi but it’s not giving me anything better.
Vss works but I don’t know how to tune it. Need to look into it but as is i can get an acceptable start from zero on flat ground but by no means clean. Good enough to crash into something, let’s go!
yeah you basically hit the nail on the head. That is a bummer man.
Your Lq-Ld : total inductance is only around 5%. That is quite low compared to most of the 14 pole outrunners we use in esk8. For comparison, my maytechs are 41% (work well on sHFI 45 with higher than default injection voltages).
Taking a little break from everyone else’s projects to push this a little further today.
@tomiboi enclosure that @haven traded me was just a bit too big and long and wide for what i needed so i got trapped by indecision on how to proceed. Decided i liked the kinda fat belly look so i came up with a plan.
First i redrilled the front truck holes half an inch further down the nose so the enclosure wasn’t so tight and to give me room for wheel bite. Replaced the boardside barrels with tall barrels. Added 1/4 risers. No wheel bite
Next i did the front and rear inserts. The curve of the deck didn’t fit the enclosure well as it’s such a small board. Also there was a solid 8mm of overhanging enclosure which is no good. Clamped some wood to squeeze the enclosure into about the right width and gently heated it with a heat gun. Did that there or four times until it started looking a little better.
Added the side inserts and went around on each one and heated the lip - pressed it to get it to conform better - then heating around each screw hole and tightened it down with a washer to get it to confirm better and keep my gasket padding nice and uniform. Added a full sheet of high density neoprene foam and trimmed it to size
Seals up well now with a good even print all the way around.
Now to sand and paint it. Imm going to see if i cant find something with darker tones similar to the wheels and grip tape. I might put a mask over it to get a little of that fish scale texture but definitely need to sand the crap out of it first - there is a layer of something that scraps off with a fingernail i need to get under first
Ok so 1/4” riser - cupwasher tall 100a barrel boardside, soft (80ish?) cone small cup washer seems to cure the wheel bite i was having.
I threw everything in the unfinished enclosure with the button and wires just through the gasket to tour around and it seems good. I think i need a new set of riptides as the cone is too soft and i cranked it down almost to the point of deforming. Ill go up a duro and be happy i think.
Very carvey still but my big turns are from the kick tail… manuals and 180s are back on the table
Feels nice, still a little loose but really fun in the 12-20 mph range which is exactly where im riding this thing. Has a bit too much power so i might go in and mess around with the settings a bit. Wish i could tweak the vss settings to improve the 0 speed torque and cogging but it’s so light and easy a push to start and stepping off is nbd.
Another wheelbite mitigation strategy is to remove the roadside bushings, put griptape on the wheels, and just use the wheels to sand away anything that’s in their way.
Pushing on launch is what I did on my unlimited board too, but I was on Unity and as far as I know single MCU ESCs have a harder time performing really well with SHFI. I did some tinkering, but didn’t end up finding a silver bullet so I just left it
Is there a reason for 12S3P? It seems really overkill for such a short hub board, but if you don’t need to carry it at all then maybe the range is more important
No good reason, went a bit overboard. When i was first planning on a short board i was thinking of using 6355 or smaller motors which wouldn’t be as efficient so when i did a big cell order i got 48 cells. Didn’t really think about again it until i found the motors. Then i found the motors and decided to drop it to 3p.
My range goals were about 25-30miles and im about 200lbs so i definitely hit that. Also Seattle - everyone who lives in flat places can get 25% more range than me right off the bat. What would get you 30 miles gets me borderline 20.
It pushes really nice and i don’t mind the weight carrying it - haven’t weighed it but it seems pretty light for an eskate to me. Heavy for an acoustic board. Messing with the bushings a bit.
Picked up some barrels in various high hardness and going to swap some things around and see if i can get it carving better without wheel bite - it’s close so it will be a combo of bushings and sanding to get tuned
Totally, because my bushings were all wack (100d boarside and probably 70-80 cone roadside) proper bushings get the hanger right so my point of contact is correct. Remove tall bushing and dewedge first, board contact point last.
Bushing update: shoutout to Motion board Shop for having a huge selection and helping me dial this in just right.
Rear is Cupwasher- 98a-krank barrel boardside 93a-krank barrel-flat washer roadside. Front is cup washer- 93a-krank barrel boardside 87a-krank barrel- flat washer roadside.
Dewedge 5 degrees in the rear
Loose and responsive even with the high duro. No wheel bite.
Only one last nitpick to figure out. One of the sleeves has a squeak, the left one. Took the sleeve off and rotated it 90 degrees and it was silent for a while but started squeaking again. Its a little rrrt rrrt rrrt as it rotates. Might swap the sleeve out with another and see if that fixes it otherwise glue? Soap? Idk
Edit: wax, waxed up the hub good and back to silent good times
and I didn’t get pictures of the fully insulated or mid points. Went too quick
