I have not had the chance to test this yet but I’m sure I will soon 
I’ll always keep updating here
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Increase sensorless erpm to 6000 or so. Works like a charm on keeping both motor heating and ESC heating down.
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how does erpm work like that? :o
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In a geared setting the motor spins fast enough even at low speeds so that the angular velocity and position estimate in sensorless mode is pretty good.
Same can’t be said about direct drive. This causes application of magnetic field that is not perfect. This causes additional inefficiency. Affects torque and increases heating. If you increase the sensorless erpm setting to higher, it will use sensors even at speeds like 15 mph, which gets you better torque and lesser heating. After you cross that speed, it shifts over to sensorless mode, but because the speed is high enough for good angular velocity estimate it’s not a problem anymore.
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I do commute with them 20km one way. I don’t have any issues with powerlosses through heat. Compared to my briefly working Raptor 2.1 hubs they don’t get as hot.
What kv version do you have?
I am on 75kv and initial torque with 100mm wheels lacks compared to a dual 6355 setup with 1: 2,67 gearing on 110mm wheels. Once you are rolling they pull quite strong.
I had them on 10S and 11S battery, 11S or 12S is much preferred power wise.
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Well, Kenna’s response is simply "the motors I sold to you three months ago? Nobody else told me that issue. You are the only one.”
I’ve had ZERO issues with the Lofty drive motors getting hot… ZERO… other issues… I could write a book…
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yeah, after my range test today i had no heat issues. was riding for 35mins at 18-22mph straight with no breaks.
After tightening the nut holding the motor to the hangar, the movement has stopped for now. I will keep an eye on it.
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Also, i didnt mention it, but i am running my motors without using sensors. I have never really used sensors because i don’t mind pushing to start.
are their other big benefits to using sensors?
great result!
as an aside… when I was having issues, Kenna consulted with her “engineer” at the motor mfr… I ask her/him what the torque spec was for the motor lock-nut…
crickets…crickets…crickets…
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I guess you get what you get for the cheaper direct drive price. I am interested to see how long i can beat them up for before replacing the drive train on this build 
haha
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the cheap-ass shielded motor bearings will be the first to go… 250miles I’ve already had the wheel end bearing eat itself alive… my reco… get some bearing lube and squidgy in the bearings every week… the rest of the motor looks solid…
edit:
and I don’t know what you mean by cheap… 3 motors… 2 axles… I coulda bought a @torqueboards drive…
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which bearings are you referring to? the ones pressed against the inside of the hangar on the inside of the motor?
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all the “sheided” not “sealed” bearings… I’m talking about motor bearings… there is one near the center of the board… “hanger” there is another bearing near the wheel… different versions have different bearings, the bearing that failed on me was a shielded bearing not a sealed bearing, and it was the bearing at the wheel side… a quick shot of bearing lube on this side would have had the motor bearings live longer…
at 500 miles, my bearing(for 1 of the motors) is making noise too. Will probably go at some point. Will probably replace them soon. In the meantime just keeping it oiled and that reduces the noise to almost nothing.
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see this bearing? it is NOT sealed… only shielded… keep it lubed and it will be happy… if it runs dry… you’ll be grumpy…
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I’ll be replacing all these bearings with quality bearings soon… so much for cheep motors…
I’ll keep an eye on my setup and roll out updates. Snow season is on the way here for me… Riding won’t be as frequent until it gets warm again 