Would it be better to have it enter from the top of the board, with a routed channel for the wires, or have it enter the deck like the rear truck? Opinions please!
I have some that need to be scraped but if you put like 10% of work that you put already I belive you can have fully functional deck. Should look better and be a lot stronger.
You would just have to cover shipping cost. Send me a PM if you are interested and again great work
Some update on the riser to hide the charging port and button. @avX helped me out and modelled a riser that is of a Paris baseplate shape and is able to house the unity button and charging port. Printed a test piece to fit, and fits well! It’s a little thick so I might opt to have it become a wedge than a riser, since I plan to wedge it anyway.
Howzat? I’m playing with one on the bench but not tried this feature yet, surely configureable? Or could be.
maybe something exposed in the Unity tool, does anyone know?
Typically it only needs to detect rotation to fully power up, passive power use during sleep not sure.
The MartinSP switch to its credit detects via being attached to 2 of the 3 phases of one of the motors, this produces enough current to activate from slumber, <1m to wake & maybe 4-5s of waking/remote pairing
Are we sure that the time is not a waking up and pairing thing? i.e push and wait a few seconds instead of pushing like a maniac for 6-10s @Deodand any tips?
Hummies for me roll nice, waking it is easy with kts
Interesting. I’ve yet to hook anything up since I dont have the hubs yet. But if its easy to push to start then I’m all for it! I’m only worried that what if it stays on due to an error or something, I know the unity will have an auto shutdown but I’m just being paranoid, would be nice to have the button as a visual indicator that the board is on or off.
I use the kick to start feature is not about how far you roll but the kick you give. Once you get use you give a decent push (on the strong side) from start and its already on. I cover max 2-3 meters to be on.