BIG CHONKAS | DIY Integrated deck | NeoHubs | Paris V3 Trucks | 10s3p 30Q | Focbox Unity

Anus done :ok_hand:

For the front truck area, should I do the same? Because I plan to hide the unity button and charge port under the truck baseplate like so

Would it be better to have it enter from the top of the board, with a routed channel for the wires, or have it enter the deck like the rear truck? Opinions please!

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@Linny I’m super impressed with your work. This thing looks familiar :wink: You put a lot of work in it and if you want I can send you one od those.


I have some that need to be scraped but if you put like 10% of work that you put already I belive you can have fully functional deck. Should look better and be a lot stronger.
You would just have to cover shipping cost. Send me a PM if you are interested and again great work :+1:

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Really happy to see you man!

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@Luke I hope you back for good and doing well health wise.

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Thanks guys! Trying to be more active and I belive that’s for longer this time. Love you all for support :heart_eyes:

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That’s really nice of you @Luke! Hope you are doing well health wise, PM incoming!

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Oh dang I wouldn’t mind working on a defect. PM incoming!

Some update on the riser to hide the charging port and button. @avX helped me out and modelled a riser that is of a Paris baseplate shape and is able to house the unity button and charging port. Printed a test piece to fit, and fits well! It’s a little thick so I might opt to have it become a wedge than a riser, since I plan to wedge it anyway.

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Anus mirum

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I love what you’re doing but have you considered no button for stealth & only using kick to start?

That way if a cop looks at it, there is no button to turn it on or off, simply throw your remote into the nearest hedge.

Focbox has it, DieBieMS has it, various antisparks have it. Then with your masterful woodworking hide a loopkey under some nice veneer in a recess.

Oh yeah and 'thought charging’®™

When endless ride happens even more analogy. Then you need a custom remote like that ring thingy for full-on stealth

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I’d agree with using push to start, and maybe a wireless charger

Hmm, problem with push to start is that the unity’s one takes quite a bit to push before starting.

Like you really have to roll it a lot before it turns on. That’s a worry for me

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It depends on the gearing, more torque starts faster

Howzat? I’m playing with one on the bench but not tried this feature yet, surely configureable? Or could be.

maybe something exposed in the Unity tool, does anyone know?

Typically it only needs to detect rotation to fully power up, passive power use during sleep not sure.

The MartinSP switch to its credit detects via being attached to 2 of the 3 phases of one of the motors, this produces enough current to activate from slumber, <1m to wake & maybe 4-5s of waking/remote pairing

I think Unity uses the regen current to fire up the mcu which then turns things on. So you need to give it a decent push.

I have it set up on my AT. Kickpushing that to start was a bitch haha

Using hubs to push to start is also gonna be tough given the 1 to 1 ratio right?

Are we sure that the time is not a waking up and pairing thing? i.e push and wait a few seconds instead of pushing like a maniac for 6-10s
@Deodand any tips?

Hummies for me roll nice, waking it is easy with kts

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Purdy sure based on Jeff’s posts, but good luck digging that up in one of the huge unity threads.

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Interesting. I’ve yet to hook anything up since I dont have the hubs yet. But if its easy to push to start then I’m all for it! I’m only worried that what if it stays on due to an error or something, I know the unity will have an auto shutdown but I’m just being paranoid, would be nice to have the button as a visual indicator that the board is on or off.

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I use the kick to start feature is not about how far you roll but the kick you give. Once you get use you give a decent push (on the strong side) from start and its already on. I cover max 2-3 meters to be on.

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