Yeah I wouldn’t trust myself to not fuck up.
I think there was a talk about using a smartphone accelerometer to control throttle and brakes once but that was just asking for a streetface in my opinion.
Maybe use some of new gyro/balancing stuff in the vesc tool to make some kind of unicycle-board hybrid 
Hey have a pretty similar board to what you are going for except 12s3p and enertion hubs. WISH I could have gotten the hummies, urethane on enertions is sooo trash, motors rip though.
Here’s my old build thread https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/warhorse-2-custom-hollow-core-integrated-build/53428
To make the board, I basically pressed together a deck cut holes in it and then added another layer of baltic birch. Then for the lid I made it out of a bunch of layer fiber glass. The thing is rock solid even after falling from a second story of a parking garage 6 months ago. I ride it everyday also
This is what it looks like now. A year later I upgrade to the enertion hubs and cleaned it. I also cut a hole in both to give my focboxes some more breathing room and added the carbon and kevlar. Hole not necessary but the single layer of carbon is crazy stong so I though why not.
The one thing I wish I could change though, other than the crap urethane sleeves is… the battery! 12s3p isnt enough for me lol. I know 10s wouldnt be enough either.
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Where did you put the 2nd focbox? It’s a shame the 3p, looks like there could have been plenty of room for 4p. Toss the bms and go 13s 
And OMG the glove remote. Is that thing still in use?
I believe Enertion is switching wheel production back to labeda, including sleeevs. if/when that happens hopefully things get better.
You should port your build thread over here 
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Nice deck! I can see why it can handle those drops since it has quite a bit of material rails. I fear mine might delaminate if I make it too thin, since my cavity is a large hole. My bottom thickness is at 12mm or so now
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yeahhh so about charging… whenever I want balance I have to open it and plug my bms. The lid is only 4 screws though so not too hard. It will still charge without the bms also which I’ll do if I’m lazy.
My next board will probably ditch the skeleton design and go 4p. That wont be until this deck breaks or the battery goes though.
I seriously hope enertion doesn’t go out of business before they switch. Things are not looking good for them 
And remote! It worked but was just a fun proof on concept. I didnt use it much because it would strain my thumb. Wish more people would make remote gloves though.
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Very cool stuff, but we have to get out of Linny’s thread!
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No! This is within the topic, please! Carry on
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Sorry for straying!
Integrated boards are by no means thin though. Mine is around 27mm thick. For your design, I wouldnt worry about delamination because you have so much material around the cavity. That should be plenty of area for the bottom layers to hold on to. But if it does delaminate you could always just seal the bottom with carbon or fiberglass and do away with a wooden bottom.
You might need a sturdy lid also to avoid smooshing electronics. Carbon fiber maybe.
Also great progress, making my deck took months. Carving and drilling wood take so much time and effort!
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Ah I see the bms has already been evicted for the 2nd focbox. Have you considered bringing the balance pins to the outside, like @visnu777 and @Skaterboy58 builds? I’m strongly leaning this way. Don’t need to balance on every charge especially if not charging to 100% to save cycle life.
Although tbh, at this point I have so many boards cycle life’s not a serious problem… sigh.
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Eh taking off the lid its easy enough. I initially almost put in 8 screws, thankfully I didnt! But yeah balance changing everytime isnt really necessary. My cells are still doing alright atleast.
I wish I had the time for another board! Im wanting a dropdown and hummie hubs.
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Working on the bottom of the deck today. I used the table saw set to 45 deg to remove majority of the material before rounding it.
Drilling the holes for the truck
Routed where the trucks will be to get the baseplate lower. Depth is around 20mm
Then cut the shape of the deck, finally!
Finally coming together and looking close to a deck
Jet spud for comparison. It’s what I based the deck shape from since it’s my favourite deck.
I also did some rounding on the nose and tail to make it more streamlined. Also had the Paris truck there to just have a look at how it fits
And with Caguamas.
More coming tomorrow. I plan to get it to its final round shape, and hopefully get the wheel wells in as well
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Impressive as usual!
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Working on the curves today. Sanding for a good 5 hours haha
Then got the nose and tail area again, so the entire perimeter of the deck is the same thickness
Hit it again with the drum sander to grind the wheel wells
Its almost done! What’s left is to route wire channels. Should I make phase wire channels LHB style or have one hole where the wires go in via a tunnel riser?
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That is shaping up to be a beautiful piece of work. Nothing surprising considering its you brother. Watching avidly.
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Dude this is an epic build so far, well done!
Routed phase wires are pretty neat, but holes and tunnel riser would likely be much easier.
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Thank you!
Taking in consideration i want it to look like there’s no wires coming from the back truck cus of stealth reasons, which is better? I’m still considering a few options on how to hide the wires well from the Hummies
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Routed would probably be more stealth, you could run them down the back of the hanger and straight into the board… for a tunnel riser you would have to go to the sides of the base plate
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Where you are pointing is the best spot. You could also make a little pocket below the truck and run there the cables.
Yep that’s my option 1.
@magharees did you build a set of Hummies with a Haya? Swore I saw it before, I think it was on the old forum. How did you route your wires?