Ooooo thank you
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Does anyone know the correct bearing size for TB 6374 motors with an 8mm shaft?
One of my motors locked up 9 months ago and sent me flying into a tuck and roll at 35kph ending with luckily just a broken collarbone.
I pulled the motors apart and two of the three bearings looked pretty screwed. Unfortunately, I threw the bearings away without checking the size…
I’m assuming the standard ‘classic’ 8mm bearings from Zealous would suffice.
I read the entire thread above and assumed equal reviews for a few bearing manufacturers, so picked the easiest to find on google.
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NSK 688Z and 698Z for tb6380
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“Titanium” bearings are not actually made with titanium balls and races. They are steel bearings coated in Titanium Nitride ( “TiN”, like a “Titanium” drill bit). This is great, except the coating will wear off in a few hours of skating, and you’ll be back to reuglar old steel bearings.
Titanium is an amazing material - it’s way lighter and tougher than steel. Unfortunately, it’s very expensive as a raw material, and it’s also savagely difficult to machine and form, due to its surface toughness.
If you could buy real 100% Titanium bearings, they would be amazing - super light and ridiculously long-lasting (and outrageously expensive!). But you can’t, and the TiN coating doesn’t any speed or durability, so don’t be fooled.”
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I second this. I heavily prefer bearings without integrated spacers for this exact reason. I have one set of metal core wheels, that i got secondhand, and it took me about an hour to get the included and shot to hell zealous bearings out of them.
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yeah instead of pulling a brain muscle trying I would have just went and bought the proper blind bearing expand inside inner race thingamajig
Hammer and a screwdriver xD
Chiselled it out like da vinci. Broke 2 of them in the process but they were mighty crunchy anyways.
Honestly i usually just go with anything abec 9 rated, not ceramic, cheap, and colored to match my build. Got a hundred pack of black 8mm ones at home.
I don’t think that would work with integrated spacer bearings still
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sure?
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Oh that works differently than another I’ve seen, that one probably would work
You guys are aware that pvc pipes cost practically nothing and come in numerous IDs and ODs right?
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If the hub can’t separate you can’t push a spacer bearing out that way
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True, I’d have to use a flat screwdriver at that point and do some damage.
I wonder if that tool exists… A screwdriver shape that expands the tip like a drywall anchor almost.
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Can probably buy a hex nut, cut it nearly in half, then drive in the next size up screw to make something like I showed above.
Would be an interesting challenge to print that tool as well
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I couldn’t find any PVC with an 8mm ID and 22MM OD.
So I think we’ll have to look elsewhere for bearings.
50 miles 
dang m8… mine have to do at least 500-1000 minimum. Dunno as long as they’re high precision ABEC11 and have RS written at the end of the name I’m sold 
independently of brand. Find that rubber sealed block dust better than metal enclosed imho.
Did you not read the context of the comment or was that intended humor?
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I realize this is a quote is from Vandem Longboard shop, but it is incorrect. Titanium can only achieve maximum hardness of about 42 HRC. The high carbon steel used to make bearing races and balls reaches a hardness of about 56-60 HRC. I think the author of that article was confusing strength with hardness.
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