Is this different to butyl tape?
I may have to go on a full butyl hunt for all the waterproofing necessities…
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My issue is I have a gap that needs filling. I think my current solution will be a temporary dust only type of gasket till I can do something better
my idea for the future is some kind of thick rubber strip to fill the gap with butyl on top and bottom for waterproofing
I filled a gap between my battery and deck with hot-glue. Although it is only one of the short sides and the battery case itself is internally water proofed as well. Downside is that dry hot glue gets dirty very easily. It has been 9 months without any issues too
Sweats in abs The base for my new enclosure is abs since Amazon didn’t have any metal ones in a good size for what I need. Guess I’ll need to be a bit more liberal with the epoxy I’ll be adding to it for added strength.
Yes, a thin epoxy coat can strengthen a material. Did it with glass that was broken, glued together, then coated in a thin layer of epoxy. The glass item fell on the cement again but didn’t get damaged at all surprisingly.
yeah. Maybe what i have is less of a gap and more of a chasm. we’re talking about 8mm here
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I’d just use a fast curing epoxy to fill the gap then. Put tape down (some form of masking tape) on the deck, then put your enclosure on and fill the gap with epoxy. Let it cure and then sand away the excess so your enclosure now is flush with the deck.
At least that is what I would do if my gap wasn’t only 2mm max. You can then seal the edge between the epoxy and deck with whatever you want to use easily
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It is only a different shape. Like if you roll a rectangular clay extrusion into a cylindrical extrusion, except butyl instead of clay.
The shape is just a lot easier for me personally, since the first thing I did was roll the tape into a cylinder. Then discovered it came pre-rolled, so my fingers can stay more clean.
The link @rosco posted is what I like
How much of a gap? Butyl rope can easily fill a couple millimeters but beyond that, you could use two pieces of butyl tape and put something between them.
But it’s my opinion that if you have space between your enclosure and board, then you either put too much inside it, or used the wrong enclosure, so that’s the problem I would be looking to fix 
its a DS eboosted enclosure and a RE44. staggered double stack pack.
I mean you’re right, but honestly im not sure how eboosted intends this enclosure to fit double stack packs with no gaps. I think as it is you would struggle to fit even a taped up p group with no padding and no series connections and have the enclosure flush with the deck. I am using some 10awg series connections which are probably 5mm tall, and im using some velcro under the pack to hold it to the enclosure which probably adds 2mm and the gap i have is around 8mm. Maybe im just being really stupid, but it seems like he should just make the enclosure at least 6mm taller so people wouldnt have to relay on gaskets to make stuff fit.
Alright, i have another question. So when I installed the inserts in my deck I installed them essentially so the screw would come out of them normal to the surface of the deck. The enclosure was not intended to accommodate that and wants the screws to simply be vertical in most places. Essentially, nearly all my fasteners cross thread when i try to install them through the enclosure. 
Is there a way to fix that?
I was hoping to have this build look kinda nice, but at this point im considering just drilling out holes for flathead screws which I could put through the top of the deck.
Was it designed for a smaller cell size, like 18650?
no, it’s explicitly stated to work with p42a which i am using
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Hello again! I was planning to finally charge my batteries after like 4 years. Stupidly I didn’t return them to storage charge when I received them and now I have to pay the price. I checked the internal resistance of each battery and total IR of each battery is 13, 15 , 15 , 16 mOhm. According to what I’ve read online, they should be between 1 - 4 mOhm. This seems too high. Are the batteries in such a state that I would be better off buying new ones? I checked the IR with the balance charger
Is this a battery pack or individual cells?
What cells are you using?
What are their voltages?
The only cells I’ve seen with 1-4mOhm DC IR are good performing LiPo’s. 18650 and 21700 round cells are typically about 11mOhm to 25mOhm for most and much higher than that for the ultra-high capacity ones.
The battery pack’s IR will be the total for the cells used plus some extra resistance for the connections and wiring.
I also had similar issues with a double stack RE enclosure. They just weren’t deep enough.
I’ve had reasonable luck molding and pouring urethane gaskets, but it is quite labour intensive and expensive to boot.
About your inserts… that sucks 
easiest option is to just drill them out and bolt through. It hurts a bit, but it just works. For my own builds moving forward it’s gonna be bolt through from the start.
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I have these ZIPPY Flightmax 3000mAh 5S1P 20C Lipo Pack w/XT60 batteries
ZIPPY Flightmax 3000mAh 5S1P 20C Lipo Pack w/XT60 | HobbyKing
I checked the IR of each cell of a battery and it comes down to
5 4 4 4 4 mOhm with voltage 3.71 3.7 3.71 3.64 3.69 V respectively (each cell)
6 3 7 6 4 mOhm with voltage 3.66 3.66 3.73 3.74 3.71 V
7 4 4 4 3 mOhhm with voltage 3.74 3.71 3.64 3.68 3.62 V
6 3 4 3 4 mOhm with voltage 3.68 3.69 3.69 3.67 3.68 V
Using the numbers you posted, I don’t see any problems.
That 1mOhm to 4mOhm range you mentioned is per cell IMO, not per pack. I think the cell IR’s are okay since your setup and the balancing wires/connector can add resistance to the reading. Your voltages are all okay too.
Having said that, I have no idea of what the actual condition of your cells is. But the info you provided, on its own, doesn’t seem to indicate any problems in my opinion.
Try balance-charging the pack slowly in a non-flammable location (outside is best) and make sure none of the cells get warm or puffy.
Leave the packs alone for 24 hours so their voltages settle and then measure all the cell voltages. Then leave the packs alone for a week at room temperature in a non-flammable location and then measure the cell voltages again.
If all the voltages have dropped about the same amount then the cells might be okay. But if one or more cells have dropped in voltage a lot more than the others, or if any cells got puffy during charging or when sitting around, then you will need to recycle and replace that pack.
Use your best judgement here. You’re the one taking the risks (whether it’s these packs or brand new ones) so you are the only one who can decide what to do.
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like how slowly? 0.3 A? I have a parallel board. Should I connect them all and balance charge all the batteries at the same time or balance charge one battery at a time?
0.3A sounds okay. Check their temperature often.
I would balance-charge each pack separately, one at a time, so you can easily check cell voltages for each pack during charging to make sure nothing weird is going on. Not at all convenient but it is the way I would do it.
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