Definitely wall, then board — as @xsynatic noted.
But I would like to add that I have had a charger that was just broken enough where the charger worked, but only if you plugged it into the board, then the wall.
But my advice is to not use any charger that shows any signs of abnormality, and I have since gotten rid of that one.
i stil havn’t ordered anything i am making sure everithing will work…
right now i am going with:
cheap 6374 motors on amazon 73dollars
a50 dollars deck on amazon
probably this esc : ESC and Remote – Boneeboard
Mboard trucks
Mboard motor mounts
Mboard wheels
Mboard pulleys and belts
and for the DIY battery:
i am getting Samsung INR21700-40T 4000mAh - 35A cells
(for a 5p pack)
and a cheap bms on amazon
these are all the parts i am planning on using
i dont want the flipsky esc’s since they are expensive to ship to france and i need to buy a remote so this esc looks quite good even if i cannot programit…it saves me about 130 dollars
And for the motors i am planning to send theme back to amazon if they dont work…
if you have any advice to give me feel free.
I’d highly recommend an ESC that runs the VESC firmware. You can configure everything on it. Power, throttle curves, temp protection, traction control, etc.
There is also a rich ecosystem of accessories (remotes, displays, lights, loggers, etc) for it.
My advice is that this is going to be a headache, and maybe a disaster, because you didn’t choose the helmet, deck, and enclosure first.
I would also not DIY the battery, and I would not use a cheap Amazon BMS, and, if so, please provide a link for it so you can get feedback. Many BMSs don’t balance.
Also if the remote comes with the ESC, it’s a sign of shittiness and should probably be avoided IMHO.
Have you considered buying a used DIY skate on the market? That can cut costs substantially.
if by helmet you mean head protection i have one, for the enclosure i am planing on cnc cutting/ 3d printing something.
for the battery this is the BMS i am planning to use (it sould ballance charge)
:https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B083QCGBKN/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A3SCFTIO8CSK1X&psc=1
if you can recomend me a trusted 10s BMS i’m interested
and finaly for the esc i was under the impression this one was okay since it’s sold with the B one boardsand they have good reviews.
but i think i’m going to try to find a vesc even if it’s more expensive 
i have tried to find used parts/ boards but since i live in france shipping is quite expensive and i prefer anyways to build it myself
If you’re going to run the BMS in discharge mode, 2.6V is too low a cutoff. 3.0V would be a lot better.
Also it mentions having balancing (I think) but doesn’t specify a balance current, so it’s not guaranteed to have balancing at all. And, this is essential and can’t be left to chance.
So for these two reasons (or one reason) I would not use this BMS.
I would not recommend a 3D printed enclosure.
But either way, I would make this FIRST, and do this BEFORE you purchase any of the other parts.
Also IMHO it’s very likely to break — so strongly consider maybe just 3D printing something that you then add fiberglass around the outside to make it strong.
could you recomend a BMS ?
thx
Not without knowing if you intend to use it in discharge or bypass mode.
Also it would help to figure out your enclosure and then battery first. The battery you choose may already have a BMS. But either way, knowing the series count and chemistry is essential. Knowing how much space there is helps a lot too.
Order of operations is extremely important and it’s easy to fail or spend lots of extra money by doing things in an order which reduces chance of success.
i still need to do the enclosure last since i need to see the size of all the components on the board.
i know this isn’t the normal way but with a CNC it shouldn’t be a problem
and of course i wasn’t planning to 3d print the entire enclosure in pla 
i’ll find a way for the enclosure …
Famous last words.
I specifically don’t recommend this for a first build.
i was planning to bypass the BMS for discharge since usualy it limits the max amp draw
i am going to build the batterie from samsung 21700 cells so it will need a BMS .
I already built a few smaller liion packs so it should be ok (first time using a bms inside the battery)
Did someone have allready put etoxx hubs on AT-Boardnamics ? If it needs an adapter or “double screw” like this ?
It also means if you accidentally leave the board on, you permanently kill your battery. This is a decision you need to be okay with when wiring around the BMS.
yes i have about 30 liion/ lipo’s so i know what happens… 
If you have built batteries before, and you know what cells you will use, then there isn’t much stopping you from getting the enclosure sorted out before you start buying any of those battery parts. 21mm cells can become 23mm after fishpaper and leave a little extra space for foam. And do not forget that decks aren’t flat, they are concave. So the deck will stick down into the middle of the enclosure.
Get that made, and then start engineering the battery.
This is why even if I have a power switch or loopkey I still use OFF_AFTER_10M shutdown mode.
Today is the day. First test run of my board!
This is what I’m thinking for the VESC settings. Everything looks good?
I’d personally raise the battery regen, I have a feeling -5A will be too weak.
I’d start with -20A regen
