Beginner Question Thread! 2023 Edition

You don’t think it would be worth sending to @YUTW123 ?

I think hes going to tell you the same thing, you have no idea if you burnt traces underneath the surface, no idea if IC’s are on the way out from reverse polarity, you can either listen or don’t. But again, we’ve all been in your shoes, I’m not saying this because I like more E-waste in our landfills.

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in fact, he’s saying this to keep dead humans out of our graveyards.

it’s just not worth it bro. that shorted cap is a black hole of issues.

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As long as it doesn’t cost a bunch to send it it can’t hurt… but don’t get your hopes up too high here, there is a certain amount of risk involved in trying to use broken then repaired components this critical. Like a remote that has done something weird… best to just not. Boneyards grow - frame it as a reminder to make cautious deliberate tests… with the power disconnected and caps allowed to drain wherever possible. :saluting_face:

If there was some way to test out our equipment, like really run it through a rigorous loaded and comprehensive test that also didn’t risk injury we would all be doing it - even if it was a pain and took FOREVER. But there isn’t unfortunately. The risk the first couple hundred miles is is already more than most reasonable people are ok with and so they don’t make boards, they buy them like sane people.

When people ask me about making a diy it’s one of the things I bring up. There’s a difference between wanting to ride a board vs wanting to ride a board you made vs wanting to ride a board anybody made and it’s all about where your acceptable risk tolerance is.

That’s why when i fix someone else’s board my standards for what’s acceptable are the absolute best im capable of doing. Most everyone around here understands that too even if they haven’t put it in actual words specifically and why you get really conservative best practices and hedged advice if you’re not really experienced yet. If you don’t know the risks fully everyone wants you to take the safer choice until you can make an informed decision.

Then once you know the risks a little better we’ll just give ya the side eye and make sure it’s on camera :rofl:. I like to play a little game in my head called “what’s the worst that could happen?” and if im ok with that then send it.

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Any ideas about what is wrong?

I was sure the gears were fucked but i think it has something to do with the motor. Hardly any oumph in it.

Sounds like a magnet slipped, something is rubbing somewhere and I dont think it sounds like a bad bearing.

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I disassembled it and the green cable had come lose inside of the motor. I dont5know if its possible to solder it back. I dont even know where ita supposed to attach.

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One of the hall sensor wires. You’ll want to clean back some of the goo on the PCB to find the solder point

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Do I solder on top or do I have to disassemble the motor?

Doesn’t look like you’ll have to disassemble it too much, just move the wires out of the way so you can get access to the solder point.

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Good news! Thank you!

How do I know where to attach it?

I’m not intimately familiar with reachers specifically, there might be a diagram or some help from maybe @Tony_Stark or @Skyart there.

If you post pics of where the rest of the wires are attached, I should be able to help you spot the solder point for the green HALL wire.

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Would anybody want to buy my partially broken d100…?
For a very very discounted price.

Can you post a number? I’m vaguely interested.

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@tech.shit if you’re interested Discounted flipsht!!


One side might be working if you move around some fets. A new single 6.7 pro is $122, and this has double the cooling.
$130 no low ball offers I know what I have!! Only minor holes blasted through the pcb
(jk)
$5 + ship obo

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You know there’s probably a number of components still okay on that board that could potentially be donated to another board.

Only testing will find out.

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Idk what seems fair? 50 or so? It seems to be totally working besides one side.

Honestly I think it’s more valuable to you to keep as a programmer and testing board

It’s basically a single vesc with a big form factor now.

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Haha yeah I guess you could say that.
Wait could I use it as a single Vesc if I wanted?

I’ve done it before. Just take the phase wires off the bad side, set it up as a single with no CAN communication.

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