Hey I would if had the budget for one
Poor man pays twice
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So using a VX2, the wizard shouldn’t be necessary since the controller is UART.
A couple quick things to check, make sure your RX & TX wires from the receiver line up with the proper inputs on the ESC these are the orange and green wires. Sometimes you have to cut & swap them, like if the RX is green on the receiver but terminates in the TX port on the ESC. Quick cut, solder shrink wrap fixes it.
Another comment already mentioned this but make sure you are set to use UART under the app config general tab. This needs to be done in the side of the ESC you’re plugged in to with the receiver. I don’t think there’s anything wrong with just setting both sides.
Lastly, make sure your control type isn’t set to “off”. This setting is under the VESC remote tab in app config. Once again I don’t know of any issues just setting both sides the same.
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You can sometimes avoid cutting wires to swap,
You can use the tip of a needle or similar, to lift the plastic tabs holding the pins in, and just re-insert in the needed order:
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thanks for all your help guys, i got it to connect and the board rides!
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There is no “optimal” voltage. Marketing bs unless some good reason is given for choosing a voltage (high parasitic current draw, high ambient temp, etc.).
I went into a lot of detail for my Patreon supporters but lower voltage always = longer shelf life. But never let it drop below 2.5V due to self-discharge and any external current draw (BMS, whatever).
Manufacturers now ship at 30% SOC, about 3.4V or lower. You’re right, it reduces energy available for a fire. But extends life too.
I store at 3.3V to 3.4V. I would have no problem storing MY CELLS at 2.8V for weeks to a few months. I can never recommend this to others since I don’t know how fast their cells are draining and the returns given by storing at below 3.4V are pretty small compared to dropping from, let’s say, 3.7V to 3.4V.
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@Dnollie, 3.9V is almost fully charged. It’s not helping at all.
@Egtscs, 3.8V is only a few percent below that. Better, but much, MUCH too high if maintaining\extending cell life while in storage is the priority.
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Does this apply to life and lipo chemistries?
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Yes, all of the li-ion types (“chemistries”) benefit from being stored at a lower voltage. How low varies by chemistry and how quickly the cell self-discharges though. And some LiPo’s (I say all of the hobbyist/enthusiast cells) are verrrrry sensitive to low voltages.
But there’s a lot of extreme…umm…emotion and firmness of opinion in the LiPo communities so I’ll stay out of that and just say stick to about 50% charge, whatever voltage that is.
There could be some benefit, a little, to going lower but li-ion cells (all of the different types) should be stored as little as possible so it’s just not worth the trouble and risk for most people IMO.
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Welcome to the internet 
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Is it usual for such a jerky/stuttery start for unsensored motors? And are keyways necessary or can I just loctite the set screws on the motor pulleys?
Disagree. Right angle cables are the good ones.
Buy nice or buy twice.
Also,
Buy once. Cry once.
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Yes. Your motors/vesc don’t know what direction to spin, hence the stuttering. Give it a nudge or push and it’ll go. Alternatively give modes like HFI/V.S.S/A.S.S a go.(Don’t remember if there was a hardware requirement vesc wise or not)
Do it and install them. I personally wouldn’t put all my trust (and thus braking/accelerating power) into some adhesive.
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We say 3.8V mostly or 3.8-3.85V.
For me if I’m charging to storage I’ll go 3.85 and I’ll discharge to 3.8 because of it sagging back.
Yea I get that about the LiPo using communities sometimes…
Apparently storing them at full can kill a couple percent of the capacity a week.
You definitely want keyways and to add loctite to the set screws on top of that. Hell, I add loctite for my keys too just to make sure those fuckers can’t come loose
Downside is that if you add a bit too much loctite to either part it can make it hard to get the pulley off. Which annoying to deal with but still better than loosing a pulley out of nowhere while on the board.
I’ve actually had a set screw that disappeared while on my board even when I added loctite to it before. No idea when it was lost to the void since the other one and the keyway held the pulley in place even without the second set screw.
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Really nooby question here, but looking for an easy answer to save me some research.
What are the most common motor lengths? Currentky own a pair of flipshit 6354s but thinking about future proofing my chainwheel build.
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This is pretty dependent on the style of board IMO, lots of SRB riders use Castle motors which I believe are close to 120mm long
Lots of pre built longboards use ~55mm long motors.
In terms of future proofing it depends IMO, are you more concerned about availability or power?
If power is your primary concern, leaving room for reacher 6495s should be plenty of power for the foreseeable future (assuming rider sanity is still somewhat intact).
If you’re concerned about replacement availability, many many pre built AT boards like the meepo hurricane use cheap, decent, 6374 motors which I suspect will be pretty easy to source for the foreseeable future+should still be plenty of power for normal riding
74/84 is common, except I think Reachers are sometimes 75/85. You get 96s but I wouldn’t recommend them if you are constrained for space since they use the same size stator as a 6384.
(In the pic I took apart an FS6374 and Maytech 6396).
The longest common ones are reacher 6395, 7490 or several brands make 63100s.
And remember, when you make a motor longer, you are only extending the stator and not the wasted space and ends so as far as I can guess a 63100 has nearly 3 times the stator of a 6354.
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