Thanks, I’ll try it out more.
What insane configuration gets you 70 miles of range?!
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18s8p and super efficient motors and gears. This is in Seattle btw so everything is hills and bursts to 35-40 mixed in. If I ride super conservative i get 100ish
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DAMN
Im using 50s cells so 5ah instead of p42a 4ah. This comes at a cost of amperage output - if pushing higher amps they drop in usable capacity and can sag harder under higher load. Because it’s 8p it offsets this a bit by spreading the load out.
Also my preferred cruising speed (25mph) puts my motors at about 70-80% duty cycle which is the sweet spot for efficiency but also low enough that wind resistance doesn’t get too bad which also effects efficiency.
The 4gs 5/1 gearbox is really efficient and has great freeroll.
I run my tires hard and on the upper end of psi.
I have a slight negative expo on my throttle which helps with reducing inrush current when starting from a dead stop.
All these things add up to mo range - not a race board but it will just eat up hills and i haven’t found one i can’t accelerate up here yet except the ones steeper than stairs… which i avoid or switch back on anyway because of how awkward getting up them is. Really love the bog roosh - though I’ve hit a couple hiccups on the build I really enjoy it. 
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I’m running belt drive, so would I actually put the teeth count, or the ratio in?
Both work, if you’re not 
on the ratio it will do the math for you, i just do 5-1 because it’s the same as 55/11.
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Should I take the battery? I trust your judgement more than my own 
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Link to your build thread? Let’s break it all down and your goals. Everything is a give and take and both those batteries are excellent options and I’ll give you advice with the best intentions here but there’s a lot of really experienced builders here that’ll chime in too. You can’t go wrong on either of those - im trying not to show my huge bias here towards the pack i made but im not 100% on what you’re making
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Almost done with my build thread,don’t want to give away too much before thread But it’s a mtb build-
6376s, 12s2p, d100, comp 95 silver hex, belt drive-72-15t, matrix 2s.
I just have to finish soldering and run vesc settings.
The 12s4p from @haven (if it fits in your enclosure) is an amazing deal IMO.
The 20s6p is also a great deal but IMO a but much for a first build, there are a lot of costs, risks, and complexities associated with high voltage.
Me too dawg @Pecos knows his stuff and has built 2 batteries and repaired (new BMS) for one of my boards. None were an easy build and all are functioning exactly as intended.
Also yeah, this would help us help you imo, all the info on your build being in one place.
Are you sure about generally lower capacity? I usually buy cheap lipos but 20AH turnigy 6S batteries usually hover around $200 new, 2 of which would be pretty equivalent to a 12s4p 50s or a 12s5p P42A. Both of which would (usually) be a decent bit more expensive in my experience.
Also about this, I’m 100% sure that SOMEBODY in California knows how to properly and safely wire up a BMS to a lipo pack. It’d be a good bit less labor and also cheaper than building a full battery.
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I’m finishing it up as fast as I can 
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Once the build thread is finished and you guys know more about my build, the battery is definitely the first upgrade I want to do.
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That puts a good light on it then, i think you should wait. Don’t fix it until you get a few miles on this build first. Riding a few sessions and feeling where you’re at and where you want to be will do more than any playing with hypotheticals we are doing here. It may be ideal for you to have something totally different than either of these two options. Don’t get those cheap cells unless you’re ok with them not working at all and them never panning out - if you just want some cheap cells to play with there are cheaper options too.
Hell if you want some junk ones ive got a recycling pile ill kick ya some for shipping only - just don’t expect them to make more than great flashlight cells. Unless under strict budget constraints the cells (within reason) are half or less than the cost to build a pack and the time/effort quickly becomes the deciding factor in battery building.
Get it running and you won’t feel so unsure of the next move
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Thanks, I’ll get a feel for the board and then make a decision, I understand your reasoning.
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Been searching YouTube but can’t find it…
Anyone have the link to that one video, I think it was by Pavel…
The video about how to test the Kv of a BLDC motor using just a drill and a VESC
Or I’m under a Mandela Effect
Nope, it’s the AI-datamining effect. As soon as I posted this Google suggested it to me.
Here it is for anyone else searching for the same thing
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I’ve been trying to connect vesc tool and my d100 but it keeps saying serial port error, could not connect. Make sure the usb cable is plugged in and the vesc is powered. It is all setup, but I really don’t know what I’m doing, any help would be great.
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Try another cable, try another port, rinse and repeat until sure it’s not the cable.
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I’ve done that, tried using a driver too, didn’t work. Not really sure what to do.
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