Hey yall. Im wiring up a DV4s i bought off a guy in the forum and the switch’s connecters got pulled off when i was unboxing. Could any of yall let me know which wires need to connect to where? It was wired up to the 8P slot.
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If you mean it got disconnected to the jst then you want the red pin to go to 5v, black to GND, and white to SW.
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For some reason the main side of the VESC doesn’t connect without making the vesctool software stop responding, the other side it connects just fine but doesn’t show the master side of the VESC, I’m new to dual vescs so I’m not sure how to fix this
U always come thru 
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Have you tried using the app? Sometimes I’ve had connection issues using a PC but the app was able to connect.
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Yea I tried using the app but the Bluetooth module wouldn’t connect
So your issue is that you have a dual vesc, but one side has a bad MCU and needs to be reflashed using an ST-Link V2.
That’s the best case scenario. Worst case is you fried something.
On the plus side, you still have one working vesc on your dual unit.
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Both lights are on so I don’t think it’s fried, vesctool has a bootloader so I don’t think I need a stlink to do it, I’m not sure it’s my first time ever reflashing a VESC. I already got the makerx 5.3 firmware downloaded
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Go for the firmware reflash in VT, if you’re lucky that’s all you’ll need. May be bricked though.
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How do I flash the firmware? It’s my first time ever doing a dual VESC and I don’t want to mess anything up
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Firmware tab in VT, select “Update all” and “Custom File” then browse for the .bin file from makerX
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I flashed the bootloader which is the generic and then reflashed the firmware and didn’t seem to work, I’m not sure if I’m doing anything wrong or the one side might be bricked
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if you’re following the guide on the MakerX website and using their file, and you’ve tried more than once, I would be pretty confident it’s either bricked or something is fried.
Should be the generic bootloader that Vesctool automatically flashes, the only custom file you need afaik is the .bin firmware file that has the right limits for that hardware, and the couple lines of lisp that makes the button and roll-start work.
Technically any FW based on the same HW will function to a degree, if everything works.
Although if a custom bootloader IS needed, I would be looking to MakerX for that, as they made the HW.
The fact nothing is showing up on CAN though is worrisome and points to a critical component failure.
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Ok I was sent this file which I’m not sure if I should try this or reload the 5.3 firmware again, supposedly there’s a isp button inside the case which I didn’t want to do if needed but I also ordered a stlink so I can try that on the bad side and see if that does something but I’m gonna give one last attempt. It was working fine till I changed a setting and now I don’t see the other side on can
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Well shit.
Background
I’ve been trying to teach my partner who isn’t necessarily mechanically inclined to do some simple stuff (change an inner tube/belt) on the board I built for them. I don’t think they have the muscle memory of knowing how much force you should tighten an M4 fastener with VS an M8.
I had them change a tube recently while I watched, I didn’t see them do anything wrong so I assumed everything went well.
In trying to replace the tube the next time myself, I found 2/5 of the stainless steel M4 screws holding in the hub were overtightened to the point where it stretched out the threads and the locknut couldn’t be removed. I also found the wheel nut was tightened so much that I removed my savage1 TKP axle from the hanger when trying to undo the locknut.
Primary questions:
1: I have a loose savage1 axle that I’m not entirely sure how to re-adhere. It visually looks like there was no threadlocker in the first place, I have loctite green (638) and red (271) as well as easy access to jb weld and some other common options.
2: I’m concerned about the strength of my M4 screws holding my hubs together after 2/5 broke during the last disassembly, I switched from stainless to black oxide and intend to tell my partner not to tighten them so much next time. Any other suggestions?
3(maybe better directed towards a therapist lol): does anybody else have experience teaching somebody else to work on boards? Have you found a good balance between ensuring they know what not to do next time without making them feel guilty for learning (and therefore making mistakes)?
Pictures
Savage 1 axle with seemingly clean threads
Screw after trying to remove locknut, locknut getting stuck, Dremeling off screw head. (Notice the threads don’t seem damaged between the locknut and tip of the screw, implying over torque rather than cross threading)
After putting the rest of the screw in a vice and trying to remove the locknut, the screw completely snapped leaving the damaged threading inside the locknut.
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You wanna find some 648 or 640 but yeah just a good shaft retaining compound is all you really need.
Set up some nut+bolt test pieces and show them what over tightening vs finger tight feels like
Also, stronger steel does this less.
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This is why i hate stainless fasteners, it’s a fine touch between too loose - just right- and awwwwwww fuck. Changing to a different steel combined with gentle instruction is probably the best bet.
As far as the axles go id use some red (271) or equivalent, if you have to replace it it’s best if it’s because it broke and not that it fell off. A cheap torch is better than a loose axle
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