Current : 102.1 bruh why does that seem weird?
I have absolute max set to 99A
Dv4s is only capable of 100A per side
One motor doesn’t start, while the other does. Both running VSS
The side that doesn’t start throws the error.
Slow abs on? Might be just because of the high draw to start vss at 0mph
Yes, both sides. I’ve tried manually spinning the motor to get it started and it doesn’t help, the stutters resist my spinning
Your abs max current can be much higher. I set it at 160A usually on the dv4s i think. The highest vesc tool allows.
After setting it high, try turning slow abs off, I’ve been told by makerx that i should run slow abs off on my d100s at least. Probably true for the rest of the lineup as well. If you start getting overcurrent faults with this off, then turn it on but then maybe lower abs max to 1.5x your current draw and only increase as necessary if you are getting faults.
Also lower your fault stop time from the default 500ms. I personally run 60ms on high power boards and 80ms on low power. The higher this time is the better chance the esc has to recover from the fault, but the higher the chance is that you get thrown off.
Also might be worth it to go to fw6.2 and run sHFI over VSS. Seems to work better in my experience.
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just noting, this is normally the per hardware config compiled into the firmware. so it should be the manufacturers spec about the max it can handle. YMMV.
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Hello again guys! I just finished putting together my first board. But I have a wierd problem. The board does not respond to forward or reverse input on the remote?! Since this is my first board I kinda asume that ive just done something stupid, but I cant figure out what =D
My VESC is a Flipsky FSESC 6.6 6.7 Plus
Remote is a Flipsky VX4
Motors are 7070 110kv Flipsky
Battery pack is a 12s7p 21700 pack.
Ive run the configuration in VESC tool and the motors seem to be fine, they test OK and I can spin them up etc via the computer. Also, the remote is paired to the board, I get voltage etc up on the remote. When I press forward on the remote, the bar on the remote goes up, but the wheels dont start spinning.
Any ideas ? =D
Check the controls settings in vesc and on the remote. App to use should be uart i believe, and on the vx4 it should be fsesc. Assuming you aren’t doing ppm or uart and ppm on the vx4
Does any1 know the differences between Reacher,SKP and Radium motors? I believe Radium and SKP source from Reacher, but seem to modify it? SkyArt rewinds the copper manually??
Found my mistake!
The VX4 needs to be calibrated every time I reset or setup the motors!
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so the dv4s came preloaded with 150A in the absolute max, but it states on the label that it can only do 100A per side.
am I completely missing something obvious here?
My understanding of the absolute maximum is not the most technical - i thought it was more of the fault threshold than a use parameter.
Like set motor amps to 70, but don’t show me faults until 150a absolute max is exceeded so any noise or millisecond peaks under that threshold are ignored.
Sidenote - VESC PSA: set fault time to 80ms for safety kids 
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As I understand it, Radium did the bulk of the late-stage development for the motors. Reacher sells the upgraded versions to retailers indiscriminately, meaning other sellers such as SKP/mboards can resell those same upgraded motors.
If you want to support the people who put the work in to make the motors better, buy from Radium. If you’re in the US and can’t afford the extra shipping cost, buy from SKP/mboards. If you’re looking for the best deal, you might save 5-10% buying from Reacher directly but your after-purchase support won’t be as good.
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Ftfy 
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The abs max setting needs to take spikes into consideration.
If you’re running 100amps and 150 abs max, you’re gonna hit that abs max somewhat frequently.
I try to make sure abs max is at least about double the current i want to run
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Hey all, I just got a torque boards 6380 190kv motor brand new and it sounds a bit crunchy when I turn it by hand. Like there’s a small amount of metal scraping inside. How worried should I be and is taking it apart easy enough it’s worth checking? From a brief search online it looks like their customer service isn’t the best so I might not have luck getting a replacement.
Time to pop the can off. At best you just need to change the bearings at worst you might have chunking
@b264 has a whole spiel about doing it
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adding to what the others replied.
Yah, ABS max is not the general motor current max. it’s more like a short duration max max.
it’s a function of the fact that current is not directly controlled in a motor. the ESC watches how much current is flowing and then adjusts duty cycle up/down to try to match whatever targets/limits it wants.
What this means is under short durations the current will overshoot the target. ABS current max is how much (for short durations) the current is allowed to overshoot the motor current max before it throws a fault/stop to protect itself.
slow abs, averages the current reading over a a slightly longer, but still short duration.
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Ahh this clears it up rightly.
So I just needed to adjust fault stop time and that solved my issues.
Still going to update to shfi from VSS though
I think you or I might be misunderstanding.
I believe that fault stop time is only a relevant parameter during a pre-existing fault, defining the amount of time that power is shut off from the motors. Lowering this shouldn’t prevent any faults, only give you a better chance of recovering if you do have a fault while riding.
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