Did… did you take the board from my house??? I wouldn’t have noticed unless you had mentioned it.
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kinda reminds me of one of those keyed LP16 or LP20. Caliper tells me it’s LP20
if you just need the charger end it’ll work
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It’s a cnlinko for sure but I can’t tell the size.
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Thanks!
it’s LP16. the one side does measure 20mm ish like you show. and LP20 looks different.
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Question.
Why don’t more people use PFTE Teflon tape instead of fishpaper for their packs? Genuinely interested
fishpaper is much more abrasion resistant.
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They each serve different purposes. Fish is abrasion resistant in addition to being insulative. Kapton is heat resistant and flexible while being insulative. I use kapton frequently when building packs, myself to cover terminals and secure balance leads. Where kapton should not be used, is anywhere that will be subject to abrasion, fish paper is needed.
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I’m not talking about kapton though. I’m referring to Teflon tape which is much much heavier . More like duct tape but for extreme temps .
Hello, I currently have a 12s8p battery that is having some charging issues as of recent, with two different chargers I have had the issue.
At around 91%, the charger will “restart” and flash red and green. I have been disconnecting it, letting it sit for a few minutes, and plugging the charger back in will charge to its normal 97.1% (50V)
Here are the parts I have:
- 12s8p P42A
- 12s 50.4V BMS
- STORMCORE 60D
Any help would be greatly appreciated, I would like to see if I am able to troubleshoot as much as I can before cutting into the battery to test the p groups.
Do you happen to have a smart bms with cell group readouts?
Im interested what the group voltage differential is when the charger starts flashing.
Usually it is the bms going into protection mode that will cause this cause one or more groups are hitting the upper voltage cutoff.
If not a smart bms, i would physically measure the groups after unplugging it when it flashes. This can either be done at the bms header or on the cell groups itself.
I would do this sooner than later as this is a sign of something is aloof with the pack, which can be dangerous.
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I have this BMS–the board is an endurance 1.0 from MBoards.
I currently do not have a voltage reader. So I am unable to test it as this moment 
Definitely need to promote engagement and a solid connection to combat an aloof pack 
@Sprezzii like PedroMcJimenez has suggested it is important to get this diagnosis asap. If it is a small problem now it can quickly get out of hand, best to buy an ounce of prevention. Your bms is not a smart bms so you will need to get your hands on a cheap voltmeter to check the pack health. It could be as simple as the bms is hitting a thermal cutoff or something more complicated but no way to see the voltage without a tester
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Thank you both for your insight! I would like to grab a Smart BMS to get to the bottom of this, again, without tearing the battery pack up 
Any recommendations that work with the Stormcore 60D & my 12s8p? Apologies in advance for the lack of knowledge. The more I learn, the better haha.
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There wont be any plug and play to make it easy unfortunately. It would entail some soldering and /or repinning the header.
Fyi, the stormcore doesn’t care what bms you have.
Is there any diy specialist in your area?
Does your pack happen to be under warranty?
If not, u can pick up a cheap multimeter and we could walk you through checking the cell group voltages.
Do you know what voltage its reading at 90% when it stops? Should be able to check on the vesc app through the stormcores Bluetooth.
I figure it wouldn’t be easy 
I do have a friend who could assist with soldering if it comes down to that.
Here in southern Ohio, I don’t believe there to be any battery experts, ESK8 enthusiasts, or DIY specialists; unfortunately & the pack is not under warranty per MBoards 100 day policy.
I may be able to snag a multimeter here tomorrow…when it stops at 91%, the Stormcore app reads 49V, and charges to 97.1% (or 50.1V).
Also, maybe this one? Just unsure of the nominal voltage and amperage I would need (if I did go this route)
Apologies- I didn’t read your post very thoroughly 
Teflon tape looks to be mostly used as thread sealant unless I’m missing something. What purpose would you use it for in a battery? Are you suggesting wrapping p-groups with it?
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From second hand experience(close buddy and others) , the daly brand smart bms are pretty hit and miss.
Not to mention they are quite hefty.
I would suggest a llt/jbd. There is a 7-14s model that is quite small, about the same size as your current.
First things first, here is a good write up how to check the individual voltages. It is imperative to never cross/touch your multimeter leads while checking it. If you do, you could melt them or your balance leads. Going into the female slots of the header vs the pins makes it easier.
If you do end up swapping the bms, it’ll be about 14 wires to solder.
In the end, if you do sort whats happening, you still may have to send it to a battery specialist to repair it. Battery repair is a delicate procedure and isn’t really for a beginner in a lot of cases.
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