The pot does go bad after a while and faster if dust/dirt get into it. Id swap to a different remote and test - maybe someone near you has a puck if you don’t have a spare?
When I have issues with potentiometers that control brushless fan speed, or LED brightness via voltage control, not current control, it seems when they start stuttering it is right around the range they spend the most time at, like the resistive material is worn and sliding and skipping and rejecting the contacts sliding over it, sending weird and variable resistance back to the brain.
Almost every tine i have used Caig deoOxit F5 fader lube on misbehaving potentiometers, containing the squirt straw, squirting down the shaft at different ranges through its rotational travel, I can eliminate the stuttering, wacky spot, for X amount of time.
X is dependent on more variables than I can quantify, but it seems I can get at least 3x more predictable normal use out of the potentiometer, before Pot replacement is the only cure.
I have not tried Caig Deoxit F5 fader lube on anything Esk8, yet, but I have used it on dozens of fans and led light , adjustable voltage power supply setups, and the success rate is well over 85%.
Thanks most appreciated. I’ve ridden it more and seems to have come good - have exorcised the demons with stoke love. But will keep an eye on the puck
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I don’t believe anythings broken, I just lost the remote and couldn’t find one from the halo website. I’ll mess around with it to see if I can get it to pair but I think i’ve tried every combination of button presses, on off holding, and order.
Well shit.
It looks like the problem is more than just the case of the motor, I seem to have cracked a magnet inside.
Is it new motor time or is this salvageable? I can’t seem to get the motor entirely apart either which tells me this might not be the only crack.
That looks bad. Cut your losses and bench that motor. A sacrifice to skaten for your bone pile. Dont try to use it and have it short and claim the vesc also.
@Egtscs
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Bummer dude, those were pretty fresh motors too 
Speaking of motors, mine click clack randomly, i havent been able to find a consistent reason, also really doesnt seem like my magnets are rubbing terribly, the one spot on the stator is where my motor hits off the ground when i take curbs. i also cant read or find the bearing from motor cause that was my other thought. Any ideas?
8800z?
Z0088?
6800z?
Google isnt being helpful
Any help is much appreciated.
That is a 6800Z bearing
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Any reason to not use 6384 FS 190KV motors on a 16s or 18s setup? (Besides “ew FS” and reachers being better)
Would the rpm be too high or heat to difficult to manage?
If theyre the original 6384s they’re going to scream at 16-18s, and at 18s the motor is going to see 10k RPM which I don’t think I would trust the bearings to hold up for long and you’d see some insane iron losses and subsequently heat.
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Figured that was the case
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I have used the 170s at 18s, and I killed two of them due to magnets shifting from the high heat. “killed” is relative, you could technically fix them, but they don’t work for my needs at this time.
They were loud but my gears were loud too so I didn’t notice that much
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Quick question:
Will a 12s8p and a 8s12p batterypack take me the same distance on the condition that I run the boards at an equal speed that they can both run for the entire time?
I’m running those on 18s. Newer Gen that are quieter. Still quite loud but work a-ok
What’s the best way to capacity test a P group? Is it as simple as using the balance wire and main battery negative and applying load?
Power is king, watts is watts is watts. Assuming you get the same efficiency from both 8s and 12s both packs will have the same capacity total ie watt hours so you should be able to get the same range.
What my personal experience says is that the higher speed available to the 12s pack will mean that i will go faster which means more wind resistance and lower range.
If you shoot for having you motor at 85% duty cycle at your preferred cursing speed or average mph you will get very similar ranges.
I like to ride around 20-25mph and run an 18s setup geared and motor kw to be at about 70% duty on the low end of that. Though there are a lot of other factors in determining what range you get from a setup - if you get your motor kv and drive train ratio setup to be in the range of 85% duty at your preferred speed at a given voltage you’ll have a bigger impact on range than voltage imho.
Just remember that more voltage usually means more speed and torque for fewer amps so at 12s you could keep temps lower but you will likely go faster just because you can and resistance increases at the square of velocity. Slower will always be more efficient but where’s the fun in that 
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Not sure what you’re trying to accomplish but if discharging a single p group via the balance wires - they are usually 24 or 26awg and can’t take much amperage. Without clamping directly to the cell or nickel the balance wire is kinda your only option.
Not sure what your goal is though
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Why would you want to do that?
You would need to connect your load to the balance wire either side of it. It depends on how your pack is wired but the diagram for a bms will usually show wire 0 attached to the pack negative and then 1 onwards connected to each group positive.
If you wanted to test group 5 for example, the negative for your load should attach to wire 4 and the positive to wire 5.
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Trying to determine if there are any dodgy spot welds without dismantling the pack as it’ll be a nightmare to do. One P group is charging quicker than others