Might be worth repairing the threads with thread inserts (Helicoils). You need the special tap, the inserts, the installation tool, and the appropriate drill for the tap. Usually the kit comes with everything. Highly recommended for thread repairs.
https://www.amazon.com/Shkalacar-Threaded-Inserts-Installation-Helicoil/dp/B09C1XYG2D
Looking for recommendations for trucks. I have a Lonestar Deck, So Iām looking for something wide, Just donāt want to fork out the cash for hyper trucks.
Got a set of matrix 2, pulleys, belts, and mounts from a Lacroix setup I could let go for cheap
Hey guys! Regarding LTT smart BMS, does anybody know if removing the tempsensors affect the BMS in any particular way (except loosing ability to read battery temperature)? I realize the rest of the BMS should work as usual besides, but thought Iād check here before
in my experience the bms will not operate without the temp sensors
Many thanks! Guess Iāll try to find two spots to glue or tape them to
You can let them float in the enclosure next to the BMS, doesnāt need to be by the battery if you donāt want to use them
Because my battery ended up being so long I used the two that came on my llt bms on my xt90 battery connection and battery positive terminal. Not the best positioning but it gets me some useful info instead of just ambient enclosure temp.
Does anyone know a good method to extend the wiring for them? I havenāt even googled it yet honestly
You canāt if you want it to be accurate, 2 wire thermal resistive devices have to include the resistance of the wire in the calibration
NTC means negative temperature coefficient which is a type of resistor, if you wanted to be able to extend it then youād need a 3 wire NTC or a BMS that uses a thermistor (which generates voltage and can be extended)
Did you get these second hand? Boardnamics does not use stainless screws, mostly for this reason.
Stainless is ass, class 12.9 zinc plated alloy steel all the way!
Iāve found it quite easy to strip stainless if you donāt have the allen wrench or driver seated fully and perfectly
r u also using stainless bit for the stainless screw also?
Well no, stainless allen wrenches are like monkey shit, you gotta have good ones otherwise youāre gonna strip everything
Yeah no it was the stock screws. The screws arent what stripped though, it was two of the taps on the casing for the drive.
bruh no, stainless bit goes for stainless screw, or else u gonna rust the stainless thing
Stainless screw goes in garbage can so it doesnāt ruin the alloy steel L wrenches
You what now? Iāve never heard of this
Generally speaking you always match materials, thereās some weird interactions that occur between metals
So thereās a known galvanic interaction between aluminum and stainless steel where the stainless will take electrons from the aluminum which basically means the aluminum is dissolving slowly and becomes much weaker, always use
Zinc has a similar electron affinity to aluminum alloys and to steel alloys which is why aluminum to zinc plated steel doesnāt corrode naturally, the catch is that zinc will flake off if water gets past and the steel rusts (iron oxide had more mass and lower density so it pushed the zinc off)