Beginner Question Thread! 2023 Edition

Not using a bearing inside the pulley on polyurethane wheels is usually a mistake.

I would strongly suggest changing the hanger instead of the pulley.

If you do want bolt-on pulleys, I have a handful here that I won’t even put up for sale… PM me… free for shipping cost… I don’t recommend using them, ever.

3 Likes

If you’re feeling silly you can file down a hanger to seat a bigger-than-608 bearing on it. I did this with cloudwheels, and their plastic pulleys that are designed for a specific brand of prebuilt they have a big inner axle section. I think I filed the hanger down to 15mm and they worked fine with the pulleys, the hangers haven’t been pushed really hard but they’ve done 100km or so and still holding up on a push board

Anything that’ll work with Venom Magnums?

LoL no.

I mean I have some Venom Magnum pulleys but they’re not bolt-on, and they’re all in use.

@Moon esk8 might have some

They work very well.

I technically do have one extra since I have a 2WD and a 1WD, and they’re sold in pairs, but it’s a spare part in case of breakage or something wearing out

thing is I want to use them on trucks with not enough axle for the pulley bearing…

BN145 is the answer. Single drive.

yeah, that’s gonna be a no from me dawg. too squirrely and unpredictable in this low-traction city.

Sounds like words from someone who hasn’t ridden many single drives

1 Like

I built a single drive a couple years ago while learning my way into DIY.

TB110, Flipshit FSESC 6.6 and 10s4p Samsung 35E on a Vanguard 38 with BN220 and idler mount.

I really hated that board. I think it’s on my IG or something still but after I added a second motor.

I may be persuaded into dual diagonal but I’ve heard quite a few downsides about that setup especially when it comes to city street riding.

Also, Caliber 3 is 184mm, does the additional axle length on the BN145 enough to compensate up to that? I was thinking BN220 was the hanger I should go with if I do need to swap the hanger, or will the 220 make the axle too wide?

Are you making some sort of implication the front and back trucks need to be the same width? If so, that’s definitely not the case.

I could measure when I get home

Kinda yeah

I’ve had it slightly off and it’s been olay, but I’ve always tried to match the axle lengths and wheel spacing, why is this not the case?

Well it only really negatively affects appearance.

In fact, I’ve found that narrower front trucks perform better, despite looking like crap.

More narrow more nimble

Or… BN145 dual wonkiness

Edit: I still have TS muted but looks like he’s slandering single drive. I’ve got no huge issue with it, I’m just greedy

1 Like

Nah, he said it couldn’t be considered because it’s too squirrely and unpredictable in a low-traction city.

But I find them to be less so, in fact with one wheel on the rear truck doing nothing except steering, they seem to be less likely to get squirrely, especially when it’s wet.

Everyone has their own preferences though.

I think squirrelly and unpredictable is a poor argument to make but I definitely think there are several solid points to be made that single drive is sub optimal for city commuting,

  1. Less torque, harder to get up steep hills of which cities tend to have many, harder to get across the street in a reasonable manner.
  2. Less grip, poses an issue for the same reasons as above
  3. Less reliable, more stress is put on the components on that side rather than distributed across 2 motors
  4. Redundancy, if you fuck up a motor in a single drive system while on a ride, you’re walking or getting an Uber
  5. Tight turns, this is a small one but gets me unreasonably frustrated when it happens, tight turns in the opposite direction of the mounted motor in a single drive system can often lift the drive wheel and not allow you to turn as hard as you’d like without momentum.

It’s not impossible to commute with a single drive but personally I’ll do my best to avoid it.

This only depends on the specific build, not an artefact of 1WD itself necessarily.

Unless you mean traction instead of torque, in which case see #2 below

Traction, yes there is a lot less, but often for me that’s a benefit, and not a detriment. For example, when it’s wet and you want to retain steering control at all costs, even if you must lose acceleration and braking. Instead of the opposite — retaining acceleration and braking at all costs, even if you must lose steering.

These are absolutely true, it’s really easy to break parts in 1WD configuration because the stresses are much higher.

This is largely mitigated by a useful tail. I can make a 180 degree turn with a zero radius. The time this phenomenon has annoyed me the most is

A) on carpet inside buildings, this is terrible
and
B) on some sandy surfaces

in which case, it sucks. But I don’t spend much, if any, time on those surfaces anymore. (I used to ride on carpet a lot)

On the contrary, I have charged dual drives sitting right next to charged single drives, and for commuting, I prefer to grab the 1WD boards.

And this is really it, I like them better a lot of them time. (not all the time)

1 Like

So my custom pulley has the bolt on implemented into the spokes that’s going into the wheel so it’s pressfit and bolt on combined, on my flywheels I’m using a pulley with no additional bearing on the back, works fine and works well with my Caliber III’s

That bolt-on looks like it will work very well.

Not at all the type of bolt-on pulleys I was referring to :sweat_smile:

2 Likes

I loved how the bolt on for my other wheels worked out so I wanted to go with a similar style but I didn’t want to damage the core on my clouds, I think also being mixed with the pressfit it’ll be more secure and won’t move an inch