The motor won’t but you’ll lose out on any regeneration - if you use electronic braking, the energy from your momentum is converted back into electricity and stored back in the battery. If you have a dead battery and go down a long hill (or get towed behind another vehicle for a while) with the brakes engaged, you can sometimes recharge the battery enough to ride some more just from the regenerated electricity.
If you use mechanical brakes, you’re converting that momentum into heat.
“but why do I care?” you may ask - If you’re doing a lot of stop-and-go riding, like in city traffic, a good amount of energy is spent getting you up to speed, while relatively little is used to keep moving while cruising. With regen brakes, every time you stop, you can take some of that energy you used to get going, and store it away to use again later. With mechanical brakes, you’re throwing that energy away every time, and it can noticeably affect your range.
It’s the same reason hybrid and electric cars get so much better city mileage vs gassers even if the highway mileage is similar - they’re taking advantage of regen braking so they don’t have to waste the energy to get moving over and over again.
This clear outer shrink wrap is necessary for the battery’s safety right? sitting in a 110* garage doesn’t seem to have been kind to it, so it it is cracking when I try to take it out of the enclosure since it was attached with some very strong adhesive.
I’ve been having problems with my battery and power consumption. I’m averaging around 40wh/mi on my rides and apparently thats high for a light rider as me, given I was going mostly 30-40mph.
Other problem is that according to @Egtscs . I’m getting way less range from my battery. Mine is 12s12p and his is 12s7p or 8p. We ended our ride around the same voltage. With me being the lighter rider with a larger battery. Any ideas?
My board: 12s7p P42A brand new, <10 full cycles
(Belt drive, FS motors, stormcore 60D Kenda K909 40psi, stretched hubba hubs)
His board: 12s12p P42A brand new <10 full cycles
(Belt drive FS motors DV6, Kenda K909s standard width 40 Psi)
Me:~180lbs geared
Michael: ~145lbs geared
Both batteries built by A13XR3 which leads me to believe it’s not an issue with the pack construction.
I’m somewhat suspicious of his belt setup as it sounds like he’s going through ~1 belt weekly but I’d be surprised if improper tension/alignment could cause this much difference, I’ve seen up to 60wh/mi from his board under hard riding, is that within reason?
Same tires and PSI? When I switched tire brands I lost about 20% range just due to rolling resistance, while PSI will also make a pretty significant difference. But also going through a belt a week is definitely not normal either, but someone else would have to comment on that since I’m not experienced in belt setups.
Is there a belt option that does better when wet? I know when I bought mine there was an expensive version for like 5x the price per belt, but the product pages didn’t make it clear why it was better.
I ride in ALL conditions so not being able to get belts wet is kind of a huge issue even if it rarely rains in Texas (compared to where I used to live)
2033, you’ve been in a coma for ten years but no one around you wanted to tell you
If you are judging me for not using my belt set-ups yet, then you’d be right I’ve just been too busy with work and then I’m too tired to get decent work done. The second drive would be close to being in use if past me didn’t fuck up and fill in the drop through hole on the wrong end of my deck So today I had to waste fixing that. currently heating my bathroom with the deck in it to hopefully get it hard enough to get some work done before 8pm tomorrow