Beginner Question Thread! 2023 Edition

From what I found, it is both of those things. It is more precise square steel rods although you can also buy it in stainless steel if you want to pay extra. I bought thee carbon steel version because it was $8 cheaper and might be stronger?

I could have bought some american shit measurement versions from Lowe’s and just cut or grind them down to size but I’ve been out to the stores the last 2 days in 75 heat and so I’d rather wait and save my energy. Plus I don’t even know if they’re open tomorrow anyway. Waiting on Amazon also gives me time for more epoxy work

It’s just square steel rod, but it may or may not be held to tighter tolerances (probably negative tolerances only - like 3mm -0.00 - -0.05mm, so it is guaranteed not to be oversize.)

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Is there a non-American name for truck bed liner? I can’t find anything on European storefronts for bed liner, bed liner spray, or anything like that. I know pickups/utes aren’t really popular here so maybe we just don’t need a product like that, but I’m looking for some kind of tough coating for an enclosure and/or remote shell. Don’t want to fuss with vinyl wraps if possible

Hmm all that comes up for me in the EU calls it bedliner. Maybe try grip or textured spray paint?

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3mm x 3mm x 10mm

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I’ve got a 12s4p P42A with a Stormcore 60D+. Assuming I get the perfect, whats the max speed I can expect to get from this thing while still maintaining decent acceleration? I am quite light at 60kg (or 135 FUB) if that helps.
Motors are 6374 190KV as well btw.

That all depends on your gear ratio

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idk, im at 15/50 rn with 125mm wheels. There is more acceleration than I can use, so I know I can gear up a little, but I don’t know how much would be too much.

Cheers, that’s weird I didn’t get any hits for that except bed inserts themselves, the big plastic tub. I got one or two phantom listings for sprays but they’re mostly like paint armour and also US imports that aren’t available. The more manly men in my family are in to cars so I described it to them and they suggested underbody sealer, but they seem a bit more soft and tacky/oily. I don’t think that’s a deal-breaker per se but not ideal for picking up or storing indoors near furniture etc. I’ll ask someone at a garage and see if they do actually have it here

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Could also try plastidip or flexseal, although it’s more rubbery and designed to peel off so it might not be as strong. I’ve heard of ways to strengthen the bond though like clearcoating the final product or using primer, so that might help.

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Okay, super noob question here. Is it normal for motors to decrease torque if you put too much current in them? My plan with fixing a cheapo hub board was to start with a high motor current, check the temp regularly, and lower it if I was getting the motor too hot. It seems like I get less torque and the motor acts strangely at high current though. Is this normal? If it is not normal, what could cause it?

Motors are generally very dumb devices that will take current until they melt.

Did you set the number of pole pairs correctly?

What esc?

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Yes, I set the poles correctly at least best I can tell. I counted 20 poles based on where the motor cogged with the motor shorted. It’s a hub motor and I don’t really want to open it up. The esc is a Turnigy 4.12 v2. Also, I realize they will take current until they melt. I just thought that more current = more torque regardless even if it isn’t linear. I was planning on having to lower the current due to temp as was going to watch it closely, but it just bogs out at high current.

Also, I was trying to do motor detection again and now measuring the flux linkage always fails. It thinks it works when the settings are such that the motor cogs and it thinks it fails when the motor spins and won’t give me a value. I’m not sure what is going on with that.

Edit: Actually maybe that whole problem is from a bad USB cable. I dropped the board with the USB attached and it bent it, but still reconnected. When I try to do keyboard motor control it flips out right now though. I’ll report back after I find a different cable in a bit.

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Alright, I got detection to run again after switching USB cables and charging. I think the “bogging” I was feeling was related to the motor parameters, but I haven’t fully tested yet. They changed some and it seems better on the bench, but it was more noticeable when riding. I’m going to wait for tomorrow for that though.

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Sounds good, keep us posted!

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G’day all, from down under! I’m new here and have been lurking for a bit. I have a beginner troubleshooting question about wheel balance and a wiggling sound on my first board - a pre-built Wowgo AT2 all terain board. I’ve only been riding for a couple of weeks and have noticed a strong vibration from the rear pneumatic wheels/hubs riding around 20km/hr (12miles/hr). One of the motors/hubs seem to make a strange resonating/wiggle sound when both riding and idle. I recorded a few videos, have a listen. I’m not sure if I should be concerned. Any thoughts?



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Here’s an imgur link too incase the video format doesn’t work.

Take the belt off and spin the tires by hand. They should spin freely without wobble when you spin them fast.

If they do, then it’s your drive setup, either motor or your belts are working at an angle.

If they wobble, then your wheels need to be balanced.

If they don’t spin, then it’s your bearings (or bolt is too tight).

Thanks Razillian, I took off the belts and gave the tyres a good spin by themselves. And I get a similar wobble result. They are 175mm stock pneumatics from wowgo so probably a lot of weight to throw around. I’ll look into balancing them.

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