Beginner Question Thread! 2023 Edition

I think all my previous/current VESC boards I liked the brakes on, this is definitely the first time I’m experiencing such weak brakes. Like I mentioned in a previous post my current hub board has weak brakes (to be expected because of hubs), but it’s not even this bad.

The major differences here to past boards are the D100 VESC, higher kv, and higher voltage (20s). Using gears instead of belts but don’t think that has anything to do with this.

Currently using the Mad 105s

I’m going to try sensorless next to see if that does anything…

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At what speed(s) are the brakes feeling weak?

@YUTW123 you have a customer with a D75 that has weak brakes. Any thoughts on what’s going on and how to fix this?

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Y’all are right, tbf I haven’t taken it outside yet and tried it at higher speeds, maybe I’ve gotten to used to bigger motors. Will try it out and report back at some point.

K yup I’m an idiot. All I had to do was pick up just a bit more speed to really feel the braking power, which is now way too strong

Edit: @YUTW123 did reach out to me to make sure everything was all gravy

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:100:

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He also reached out to me and asked me if I wanted to have my esc replaced over the strange batch 1 vesc remote issues. I declined as I’m having zero issues with my unit besides that, but the hoyt puck doesnt discriminate :stuck_out_tongue:

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Also, using Hoyt puck as I haven’t gotten the can receiver WavRX to work. But @WavRX did get me some insight into what I did wrong.

Has anyone ever experienced a hoyt puck giving weird full reverse pulses when off throttle? Never had this happened before, not very inspiring when you have the board trying to pull out from under your feet when letting off throttle doing 50mph

That sounds like a turd-laying experience

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Very, and it’s getting stronger somehow? It started with just a slight tap of the brakes while I was going through some corners but got to be like really strong, like scrubbing 10mph off my speed.

Is your puck old? Your potentiometer solder joints may be failing. Email Hoyt.

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Open the case up. Check the potentiometer solder joints.

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I don’t know for sure, Hoyt sent me this one to replace the last one that I had that also had a potentiometer issue, and ended up with a broken wrist and the remote in a river :joy:. Completely forgot that could be an issue, I assumed the new one they sent wouldn’t have that issue but I’ll check it out, Thanks, guys.

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I opened up my board today following my confession here:

Fuse is fine. Charge port is fine. Voltage on mains is 49.1V. Voltage on charge line is 49.1V.
BMS is connectable via Bluetooth, everything looks good there (I think) with voltage at 49.4V.

Next steps?

What’s the problem now? Seems like before you weren’t getting a read on the chargeport but now you are so, is it that it’s not charging?

I wasn’t getting anything off the external charge port, died while charging and read 0V on the battery meter.

The 49.1V (multimeter) was off the xt30 for the charge line and not the external port.

And now with the enclosure off I’m getting the 49.4V on the battery meter.

I don’t want to bolt it back up if I have a short or open someplace. Any obvious things I should look at?

My thoughts, what happens when you plug the charge line back in, do you get the same non zero reading off the external chargeport?

A connection to one of the p groups is loose and depending on how you jostle the pack it connects but other times it doesn’t so you get 0v reading. So I’d check those. Did you build the pack yourself?

Plugged into the charger through the meter and it’s still showing voltage and is charging.

The battery was made by @A13XR3. When it was showing 0v on the meter the bms app was still showing all the pgroups at good voltage levels.

This is the exact kind of fuckery I was trying to avoid by ignoring the problem and not opening the board up. I blame Al :rofl:

Yeah all I can think of is some loose connection that usually comes and goes. If you’re not already, glue shrink wrap your charge connectors?

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