It was a 100% this, I made the same mistake again, I was flipping the enclosure onto the bottom of the deck whilst I worked on it and kept on tracing the sensor wires back to the motors & then plugging them in to the wrong side (because I have to flip it back over) 
The motor detection gives very weird results when you make this mistake too.
1 Like
@Africaans the ones Glyphiks linked are for RKP trucks. You’re looking for a 30 degree TKP / DKP baseplate it seems.
1 Like
Try Hyst Reverse mode.
2 Likes
Not an option for UART? Or am I missing something
1 Like
In the general tab
1 Like
I had it on Current no reverse with smart brake this morning & braking is now way more confident.
Will try that Hyst mode this weekend, what is the difference out of curiosity, nice to know what to expect!!
Next question - throttle curve. On first ride this morning that initial acceleration felt a little slow and then at mid-high speeds I felt like I had very little wheel on my remote to play with. So if I want slight more responsive at initial startup and more range in my mid-high how do I use the throttle curve settings to achieve this?
Currently it’s on standard polynomial and I’m on hubs if that makes a difference to sensitivity
Presumably I can adjust brake curve in a similar manner? Please feel free to point me in the direction of a good throttle curve tutorial
Thanks again folks, you guys are the difference between DIY and DI-die 
It acts normal like a current+brake control until/unless you brake to [almost] a stop, release the throttle, then press brake again to start reversing.
It would be like if you stopped a car and then if you picked up your foot then started pressing brake again while stopped, it starts going backwards.
3 Likes
Most have auto-shutoff features for the main 12v output, so they wouldn’t work as-is for an EV.
Plus the 18000mAh rating is at 1s4p. I’m assuming they do it that way so it’s comparable to a regular USB power pack charger. At 4s1p it would only be 4500mAh.
There is no free lunch with batteries unfortunately. While you could tear it apart and use the cells in series for a PEV, it’s unlikely that it would be cheaper than regular RC lipo packs.
2 Likes
Cool- I’ll have to try that. I had mine on smart reverse which seemed to stop working by itself, so I’ll try this out. Does it use the same ramp time/power % as smart reverse or is it full current?
It’s the same current as driving forward, except in reverse. I’m not sure about the ramp times, as I prefer the default ones.
1 Like
I didn’t realize the rating was at 1s. That kinda ruins it. I thought it might be cool to have something dual use in my car.
I’ve honestly found the cheap portable jump packs next to useless for starting a car anyways. I’ve never had success jumping a car with them, and that’s on 3 separate cars.
agreed…I get a descent sized one and it works great, the little ones don’t do nothing for me car…
key word:
2 Likes
$40’s definitely on the low end for one of those. They’re usually in the $80 to $150 range.
1 Like
Mine was about $70 and it’s been great for me. Had to use it twice within the last week.
Pops owns an auto shop and towing company so these are a staple for us. Buy nice or buy twice.
3 Likes
(post deleted by authoor)
(post deleted by author )