The hurdles you went through… wow. Hopefully your board gets sorted out soon. Lots of good folks here chipping in with info. Good on you all.
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Is the Flipsky VX4 copmatible with the MakerX D100s? The VX4 gives options for VESC4 or VESC6 but the D100s says its based on VESC100250. Not really sure how all this VESC stuff works I haven’t touched one yet.
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yes
the only difference is the jst connector that they ship with since v4 and v6 have different pin count on the uart port. for d100s u need to choose v6 option
cumpatabul*
Most of the decks I would like to electrify are very low on the ground, drop-throught, and I personally hate risers.
To avoid ground clearance problems (or to mount the batteries/esc on the deck) is it possible to:
-Use one such deck as a positive mold to make a new 5 mm thick deck using carbon fiber/glass fiber sheets.
-Use a vacuum bag/ 0.9 bar vacuum pump to reinforce such a structure and ensure maximum mechanical stability
-Add 1.5/2 cm of maple /glass fiber sheets under such a structure.
-Make space for the installation of the electronics by removing part of the layers of maple/GF sheets
?
I realize this is overcomplicated, but I do not have access to a mechanical press and would like to replicate the geometries of the deck in the most precise way.
Has anyone done something like this before?
If so what are the pros and cons?
Cost, time and effort are all pretty high.
Result will likely be pretty stiff which will change the ride feel. @glyphiks current thane build, Frankendick, is similar to this.
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Can confirm, it’s suuuuuper stiff. But its going strong and it was a fun project. Crazy amount of work tho.
And the only thing i don’t really like about it is how high it rides… i want it loooowwww 
very inspiring reading, I don’t know how I couldn’t notice it 
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Heya- not too familiar with vesc stuff but I got everything setup in vesctool and the remote and motors work! That being said, I don’t get any speed readings 
(or anything in the dial/dashboard UI in vesctool). Google hasn’t been very helpful on this but I might just be kinda stupid. Anyone know what I might be getting wrong?
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u need to enable the RT data button
ahah. (After trying to solder on several connectors to the battery and getting a working very jank solder job with a xt90 I got really paranoid last night about it and cut the connection before I went to bed, just gonna solder it straight to the cables coming off the flipsky antispark tbh but I’ll check that in a bit )
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Can i use a 170kv motor with a 14S (58V max voltage) battery? Looking over the Esk8 IQ post, the formula for the max motor Kv is 8600/max voltage (58.8)= 146Kv but i regularly see builds with higher kv motors with similar voltage. Im assuming theres more that goes into it than just those 2 values. Can anyone explain this to me in monkey terms? (Or regular terms)
For reference im using the makerx d100s vesc.
I’m using 173kv on 14S battery on a D100S. They work great.
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I commend you for actually reading up on some stuff! Plenty of people don’t!
That article is quite dated by now and figures the equation you are referencing on an ERPM of only 60k erpm.
Many/most controllers these days are capable of more than double that value, with v6 controllers supposedly capable of up to 150k erpm. Check out this more recent thread about escs
I’m too dumb/lazy to try and reconfigure that max erpm equation, but if you aimed for a max erpm of about 120k, you’d be within the limits of most, if not all v6 vesc controllers
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Is there any reason that I shouldn’t hook up 5v and ground from both vescs when doing split ppm? I’m trying to run 4wd but whenever I plug in the pwm pin to both, they both stutter super hard and I’m thinking that there isn’t enough current to get the signal to both vescs.
Does anyone know how many pole pairs the raptor 2.1 hub motors have?
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I tried shorting two phase cables and I counted about 18 poles, but the motor is to weak to get an accurate feel.
Got a set of MBS rockstar pro 2 I’m setting up for my next project and they don’t run true? I checked the bearings and spacers to make sure they have seated fully and they seem to be good. It’s not just one it’s all of them so maybe I’m doing something wrong. None of my other hubs are out
User error or something I need to take up with mbs? I can see the chamfer around the bearing seat isn’t symmetrical so maybe it’s a bad batch? This is the first set of aluminum hubs I’ve gotten but my evolve hubs run true and these vibrate just from hand spinning. It’s hard to see but it is out enough that I can feel it
Hard to see with my crappy camera work with black on black. Edited to add this one
The rockstar 2 pros have specific positions they run true in.
You need to “turn” the two halves and spin them in each rotation to find the mated site.
Joel did a Video showcasing it.
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Did you try it on any other wheel axles? I have a set of Pro 2’s and a set of Pro 2 XL’s and both are very straight. Definitely wouldn’t rule out a bad batch - in that case I’m sure @MBS would take care of you 
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