Moon still sells replacement gears
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Moon is batch specific and only remaining stock im fairly sure? I may be wrong, i am newish. But the website seems to just be whats left?
I think I can answer this part at least: at the ends, in your case I think at ESC 1,2 and 5,6
Not sure the case for or against using a pot, but the termination resistors are supposed to be at both ends to dampen signals that have already propagated to all nodes. Basically if one node pulls the lines high and low you want the wiring to return to the neutral/midway voltage by itself when the node isn’t actively outputting, and not have that signal reflect up and down the length of the bus freely. If the harness is already measuring at 50 something ohms though that should be good, that’s already in the right region to give a clean pulldown. Open to correction
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Didn’t seem that way from my talking with him but who knows what the future holds.
Does anybody have experience using a wearOS watch with metr?
How exactly is that done? Is there a separate metr app to install on the watch? Is there potentially an issue with compatibility with the galaxy watch 4?
didn’t see a response so here’s my 2c: building batteries is fun but not cheaper until you have made 10 or so and the cost for tools and mistakes levels out 
. if you just want to open that can of worms it is fun and rewarding imho. Defiantly post up your issue on The battery builders club . Seems like with a little troubleshooting you might be able to salvage some life out of your current battery - post up all your battery specs there and get that sorted first.
Does anybody have experience using matrix 2s with reacher 6485s and BN M1-AT?
I’m having some fitment issues that may stem from me being a dummy but here goes:
1: my left motor mount assembly is a bit wobbly and in its relaxed state has no immediately visible clearance issues like so
When pushed up though, the motor just barely rubs against the hangar like shown here:
2: my right motor mount assembly isn’t wobbly but does have clearance issues with the baseplate when under heavy turning like shown here:
Has anybody dealt with this or a similar issue before? Should I finally just update the trucks on my current build?
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I have flipsky 6384s on BN-AT drives and Matrix 2 and the can hits the baseplate on full lean. Has worn nice lil grooves in it.
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I’m running exactly that, M2’s with 6485’s on BN M1-AT’s. I know the clearance is pretty close but last check seemed as though I had enough clearance. Are you testing full lean with no bushings in there? I know I can’t push mine that far with the riptide bushings in there but I’ll try it again. Mine is for off road so it’s not a big street carver.
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Honestly seeing that makes me more confident in how little it’ll rub the baseplate, I just have a hard time getting @ARCTIC 's M2 baseplate crash out of my head (thankfully I’m not looking to do 50mph on them though)
Basically yeah, the motor mount plate almost hits the deck but the motor gets in the way of the baseplate 0.5-2mm earlier
I think it’ll be okay especially with how it is for y’all.
Thanks gentlemen
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Now about detection: the left motor has detected over metr with no issues but the right motor keeps giving me a “detection failed” message
Logs if anyone can make sense of this:
Running a SC60D+ and 205kv reacher 6485s trying to do detection through a metr pro CAN.
I would try the detection through vesc tool
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Grumble, I wanted to try and avoid opening the enclosure but that’s probably a solid idea. Thanks
If you have a metr you can connect to vesc tool on your phone
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Success, never used the VESC tool mobile app before but everything seems to be working now.
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heya- just got my go-foc DV4s. I have a couple questions:
- https://www.vesc-project.com/vesc_tool has no valid https certificate and I’m a little bit concerned about running anything from there…
- it says 3-12s on the ESC, I couldn’t find anything about how it was rated on the store page and I’m a bit concerned now, I have the mboards 12s4p 12s4p P42A Battery Pack | Transparent Series — MBoards which does 160A, the ESC’s store page says it can handle “100A each side” though and the mboards 12s3p is apparently 135A so would that not work either??? Really just don’t wanna blow the ESC.
Esk8 escs have the capability to limit current. Just set your current values in vesc tool. Set Absolute max current to the maximum the esc allows tho.
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Also don’t worry about the website
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+1 on Evan’s answers to those specific questions, but it’d probably be a good idea to watch a few videos on setting up VESCs because it’ll help to feel more comfortable with the whole process. There are enough variables or steps that on their own aren’t super difficult, but in a big cluster it’s relatively easy to make a mistake
On the current “each side” thing; your ESC (like most two-motor VESC based ESCs) is basically two separate controllers strapped together. So when it says each side or per side, it means per each half that controls one motor. If the battery current is 135A max, and the battery is feeding two controllers, each one should get a budget equal or less than half the battery’s capability. Also, that battery cannot do 135A, mboards is using the theoretical current the cells can put out in open air at room temperature. In a pack surrounded by other cells and insulation they heat up a lot more and can’t give that current. I believe 75-90A for that pack is a more realistic limit, so in VESC tool you’d program each side as 38-45A
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On a 12s4p? Id comfortably set 60 battery amps per side. You’re only gonna peak 30 amps per cell at that, sustain much less.
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