I loctited my motor pinion gears, let it cure for a day, and then realized I needed to take another 2mm or so off of my motor shafts. So I cut that 2mm off with the pinions still loctited, but I was thinking… the shaft got pretty damn hot from the Dremel friction. Is it possible that I destroyed the integrity of that existing green loctite? Should I torch it and re-apply?
Honestly taking these damn pinions off is such a bitch, but I’m thinking it’s safest to just bite the bullet and re-apply rather than risk a failure. But I also really wanted to ride this board tomorrow for the first time in months. Opinions?
It’s fairly common that you’ll need to cut the shafts down a little to fit in the gear drive case and I’d probably replace at least the rear hanger with a 270mm Boardnamics… You might be able to make it work without them, but I’d upgrade both front and rear to 270s… They’re pretty nice.
It’s perfectly reasonable to refer to locktite by color. All green locktite has the same strength. Just different viscosity which is typically not the concern when discussing which kind of locktite to use.
At a minimum, Loctite 603, 609, 620, 638, 648, and 680 all fit that description. So again, it’s not useful — and it’s easier to type a number anyway, it’s less characters. It is also more helpful to noobs and beginners.
Let’s talk about things and building stuff. You can PM me for personal insults and hate speech.
Green is fine tho if you what you mean is “not blue”.
Like if I said does this hole need an M4 or M5 screw and you said “grade 8 or stainless screw? It’s important.”
Like yes, it’s important but one thing at a time.
If you are going to keep it you can get an amnesia chip to clear the rlod if you can get it balanced:
If you are going to sell it don’t do that since you need to know how to deal with it and maybe there’s a higher risk of it exploding some day and that’s not fair to do to someone unless they understand what they are getting into.
Otherwise send it to The Boosted Guys for RLOD repair:
If they can’t fix it, don’t fuck around with all that proprietary shit get all new battery, bms, esc, enclosure. You can keep the drivetrain but really why bother at that point.
To me it’s not worth it… salvage the deck and make a new build with it.
It’s just obnoxious at this point. It’s not hate speech. It’s an intervention. Green loctite has only ever referred to 638/648 here. When we talk about TB110s, we never specify which specific version. They’re all slippery and bouncy to some extent, the point comes across.