Is there any reason I should not use an og unity and two vesc 3.2 all together in can ?
Yes, because VESC 3.2 are ancient and I don’t even think released to the public. I’m not even sure where you found any, but they’d have been made in or before 2014. They probably aren’t compatible with any firmware that can run on the other controller, and so you’ll have a hard time.
Anyway, a newer design could help in a thousand different ways.
I’m dumb and I meant v6.6
As long as each one is running the same version of firmware and there isn’t a huge difference in power levels, you should be okay.
that’s the main problem, I’ll guess I’ll finally have to get rid of the old unity app and firmware
A comfortable cruising speed on pavement is typically around 15-20 miles per hour, while on a crushed limestone bike path, it is around 10-15 miles per hour.
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So I’m putting together a DIY gearbox, and the parts I sourced are made of 1045 steel. The teeth come hardened but that’s it. Do I need to harden the bores and shafts so the keyways don’t explode? Do I need to worry about warping the parts? TIA.
(Torque loads are high, gear bores are 20mm deep, shaft is 17*200mm, hardening tool is a blowtorch)
I wouldn’t try hardening with a torch, the odds of warping the axle is way to high
But if you do, research which steel you have and whether if should be quenched in water or oil, make sure to do a few heat cycles and temper it
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Trying to harden them with just a blowtorch is a recipe for warping. It should be okay as-is.
If the teeth are hardened, I would leave it the fuck alone. That also seems like the most important part to be hard. But also a DIY hardening job sounds like a recipe for worse stuff then before you started.
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Right then. Thanks for the advice, everyone. The reason I asked here is because I had to come up with conflicting information on google searches about whether keyways should be hardened. Maybe they need to be hard to resist indentation, or maybe they need to be ductile to avoid breaking at the stress concentrating corners. I can see it going either way, since it’s not my area of expertise.
Or maybe I’m just drunk on power since I bought a blowtorch recently lol. But sure, I’ll leave it alone.
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Man with brand new hammer looking for things to nail.
Halp!! can’t connect my vesc app to ubox v2 75v/100a. this is a new build so I want to go in and get all my parameters setup but i cant get the dam thing to connect or find anything online that has solved my issues yet. google foo is weak
I have the ubox remote and have been able to pair that and access some of the settings. but i want to get on the vesc app so i can get test mess with some things but the ui is very limited.
i tried connecting to my pc via a usb cable and it cant auto connect. i get an error to check if the vesc is on and cable connected. i have multiple verified good usb c cable that connects data and power and it works on other devices (laptop, phone, camera) for data transfer and such but when i use any of them on the ubox windows shoots and error saying bad drivers. installed a virtual cdm driver (VCP and D2XX) as this was an old fix in an old thread on the vesc forums to fix connection issues with windows 10 but im not familiar enough to know if its the right fix as all the old links are dead or for windows 7-8 drivers. idk? i can get the vesc software to connect to other esc’s so i think my software is good there but idk
i also tried to connect to the ubox via the app (ios) with no luck. i have tried detecting is with the native bluetooth on the ubox, thought im not sure if this one has that or if I’m just crazy thinking it does as ive never gotten it to connect or detected an available connection. i tried using the provided external blue tooth module from spintend… same nothing burger - it has a blue indicator led on it that flashes but no connection via the app or Bluetooth on my pc. i also have an old bkb Bluetooth module (V1) but im not sure if it is can or uart and the board pin out on it isn’t labeled so i may have killed it trying to plug it in.
i also have a metr pro v1 uart that i have tried to connect to the ubox with no success but i believe there is something i read a long time ago saying that no only are the uart metrpro v1 kinda finicky but they also wont work on a ubox fsr…
side note: the 12v outputs from the ubox dont seem to work, there is a 12v light, horn, and break that i should be able to trigger with the ubox remote but i test no output voltage when i mess with it…
nuts for flipsky dkp trucks should be the same as kingpin nuts (double check this before you trust me, this is true for bn 10mm axles)
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What is the voltage of your battery? I’m tipping it’s dead.
Oh bummer.
The last ubox i played with, i could get it to connect but i couldn’t read or write anything over bluetooth on metr or vesc app.
Running it from a bench 54v supply while I build the battery
Try pressing the power button 6x. Had a similar issue before and some combo of button presses fixed it iirc
Ok so yo, what up with running a lower front than rear? Like if my front is dropped through but my rear is top mounted?
Mashed all the buttons, no change i can see 
just to put the cable to rest i have two different ones ordered to try. I just feel like it shouldn’t be this hard, maybe i burned up the uart chip? Repairing that would be quite a bit beyond what I’m currently comfortable doing.