I tried swapping these hall sensor adapter around, but it still didn’t make any difference
This is what happens to the motor connect to the master side, when I apply the flux linkage from the motor detection:
That seems like a hardware failure.
I tired changing the value as low as the other motor and then the motor didn’t make that sound anymore
Is it still throwing DRV faults?
You can clear the faults through the terminal or by hard reboot.
Have I been assembling my wheels + pulleys wrong this whole time?? by having the head of the bolts on the other side of my pulleys. 
You have bolt-on, these are pressfit.
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like @xsynatic said, those are a different type of pulley. those two screws you see are entirely separate from those pins you see on the front. those screws just connect the part with the actual pulley on it to the wheel adaptor.
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What they said^^
yes
Is there any reason I should not use an og unity and two vesc 3.2 all together in can ?
Yes, because VESC 3.2 are ancient and I don’t even think released to the public. I’m not even sure where you found any, but they’d have been made in or before 2014. They probably aren’t compatible with any firmware that can run on the other controller, and so you’ll have a hard time.
Anyway, a newer design could help in a thousand different ways.
I’m dumb and I meant v6.6
As long as each one is running the same version of firmware and there isn’t a huge difference in power levels, you should be okay.
that’s the main problem, I’ll guess I’ll finally have to get rid of the old unity app and firmware
A comfortable cruising speed on pavement is typically around 15-20 miles per hour, while on a crushed limestone bike path, it is around 10-15 miles per hour.
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So I’m putting together a DIY gearbox, and the parts I sourced are made of 1045 steel. The teeth come hardened but that’s it. Do I need to harden the bores and shafts so the keyways don’t explode? Do I need to worry about warping the parts? TIA.
(Torque loads are high, gear bores are 20mm deep, shaft is 17*200mm, hardening tool is a blowtorch)
I wouldn’t try hardening with a torch, the odds of warping the axle is way to high
But if you do, research which steel you have and whether if should be quenched in water or oil, make sure to do a few heat cycles and temper it
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Trying to harden them with just a blowtorch is a recipe for warping. It should be okay as-is.
If the teeth are hardened, I would leave it the fuck alone. That also seems like the most important part to be hard. But also a DIY hardening job sounds like a recipe for worse stuff then before you started.
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