Ok got it, thanks. I will likely use the wizard because it’ll be a new install and setup.
Any advantages to not using the wizard?
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None AFAIK unless you’re using an older FW and need to tune HFI
You still need to go in manually after the wizard is done and set your motor amps to higher than the detection sets them, as well as your battery cutoffs if you dare. The wizard will always be pretty conservative.
Although for your first build it’s probably better to stick with the detected values and then change settings later once you have a feel for it.
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If you want to just up your motor amps, or change one small setting without having to redo detection.
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But playing “spin the hall sensors detection” wheel is so fun!
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+1
Every Knipex tool i have used has been quality.
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Anyone know how the fuck to get the flipsky vx4 remote to display my battery’s status/ current charge level? Last week I had though it just didn’t like the extra bat+ output on my focbox due to the current that pin can output. While adding in my loop key, I soldered the bat+ lead of the receiver to the positive terminal on one of the xt60 connectors and yet the remote still isn’t displaying the battery’s level at all. Everything else on the remote appears to be working on my desk.
I’m using the UART mode if that matters at all
Edit: figured it out via this old thread reply
I also discovered that for whatever reason I cannot change the settings on the remote while connected to the vesc that is connected to the vesc tool. Weird.
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Are the breaks always supposed to be loud when running belts? 
On my desk the breaks worked nicely with no loud noises or skipping but when testing it they were loud and pretty jerky. Not sure if the issue is the belt length or if I just need to adjust the breaking curve in my VESC tool. Or if that is just normal for belt drives and they never brake the way that hub motors do.
Belts will switch poles more than hubs per rotation so it’s a lot ‘stiffer’ even for the same settings, plus a lot more resistance so they always have baseline brake force
I suppose try a lower brake current, can you log a ride?
Hello everyone,
I am currently experiencing an issue with a Flipsky VX1 remote receiver that I recently purchased. I have found that the signal amplitude is significantly lower than other receivers I have tested, even when connected to a properly functioning ESC.
I have checked all connections and confirmed that the ESC is functioning properly, so I believe the issue is with the receiver itself. I have also tested the receiver with an oscilloscope and found that the signal amplitude is much lower than expected.
The vesc doesn’t detect the signal in UART or PPM. but it works fine with other receivers.
I am reaching out to ask if anyone has any experience with this issue or has any suggestions for troubleshooting or resolving the problem. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you in advance for your assistance.
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Are these the same circuit? Is all you’ve done is changed the receiver here? Is one of the signal wires broken? A bad wire/connection would be super suspect.
If none of that works, sounds like you should contact Flipsky and return the defective unit, that’s smoking gun proof if they are on the same circuit and don’t have any loose wires.
Flipsky does have a reputation of having low prices due to lack of adequate QC.
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yes the circuit is the same only the receiver is different and the wires are all fine.
thx for the reply 
I tried to contact them but to no avail… not only bad products but also horrible customer service 
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Also that’s PWM and not PPM as VESC mislabels it
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I Don’t think I can log a ride since vesctool doesn’t seem to want to work with the focbox Bluetooth module, and I don’t think I can get the focbox/unity app to work with the firmware on the focbox.
I will check the brake currents once I get the board opened up in a bit, but I did grab a video of the noise to see if it is normal or not. Also worth noting that I left all the values as whatever VESCtool set as default, so if those are shit then that would be the issue
Sounds like your belts are skipping
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Yeah definitely sounds like belts
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There is no skipping when it is on the bench and I try braking. Is that normal?
I’m guessing I should go up a belt size since I’ve got 315 on it now and I don’t think I could easily put the 310s on it. I can also just go down to a 36 tooth pulley (38 on there now) which might fix it better than swapping to the 320 since that one felt a bit too loose I think? Been a few months since I fucked with the other belt sizes since I thought I’d found the perfect size. (before actually road testing it )
Yes, because it’s unloaded.
Everything changes once you apply a load.
The way a skate works on the bench is typically not very indicative of how well it will perform once you stand on it. Everything is different.
Do you have any room on your motor mount slots to push the motors out further and add a bit more tension?
RIP my hands because I’m pretty sure i’ll need to swap the pulleys and they’re bolt ons.
That isn’t even a design feature on these mounts 
I do have a hole and idlers if needed, but I think it will be easier to swap back to the original 36 tooth pulleys since I think that should fix the skipping problem without having the belts too loose.
The hole for the motor shaft is just a hole. No room to move it left and right at all. Only the bolts for the motor get the luxury of having a slot to adjust their positions.
