I’m using a Pelican case ATM and the only way it’s secured is ratchet straps , so I gotta untangle those and take them off and pop the top so it’s a few minutes for me too. If I’m that worried about my battery level though I’m less worried about spending a few minutes checking it.
To be fair, I should have said several minutes to be more accurate. Each half of the enclosure has 8 bolts each and the bolts I bought are a bit longer than they need to be which makes it take longer to tighten or remove the nuts. I didn’t want to risk going too short and having the lock nut not even lock on properly.
For a real time clock definitely, but even just having a time elapsed since remote turned on would work for me. Or a a stopwatch. Definitely don’t want a constant drain though, I agree.
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You don’t have a charge port?
…I didn’t think about that. It would work on my main board but the 2nd board has one that would be too tiny for my probes to fit into I think.
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I’d rather just switch the charge port to the bigger 3 pin version tbh. Then I could use my multimeter in it easily.
Only reason I haven’t is just in case I fuck up the sides/ the charger wires have misleading colors. I have a sacrificial 10s charger I don’t need (it is too low of current) and an extra port that I could use to switch the 12s charger to the bigger plug for free.
Don’t stick multimeter probes into charge ports!
And for fuck’s sake, make sure your charge ports are fused.
If you have to measure from a charge port, plug something into it that has wires on it, and use the multimeter on those wires.
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This for sure. All my chargers are fitted with xt60 or xt90 and i just make adapters from that to the charge port on the board. Super easy to use one charger for multiple charge port types and super easy to check voltage from charge port with minimal risk
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Can’t figure out if I am having an issue with my DV6 on my Omakase or if it’s something else. When I turn the board on via loop key a lot of the time only one motor will spin up (forward and reverse). When connecting via Bluetooth using VESC tool it will find the DV6 fine, however when I scan for CAN devices it won’t find any (only local). After disconnecting and unplugging and plugging in the loop key again sometimes I can get both motors to spin up, and when scanning for CAN devices in VESC tool it will find local and CAN devices.
Sounds like the CAN connection might be flaky? Not sure what to check for. All motor phase wire connections are good (5.5mm bullets, taped to prevent disconnection). Sensor cables feel secure into the ESC.
Make sure both escs have different CAN ids
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Yes, local comes up 60 and CAN is 69 I believe
Be really careful about those loose wires though. Ideally you’d have the multimeter probes already connected to the wires and insulated before this adaptor is plugged into the battery.
I have a battery that I won’t be able to use for a month or so, and need to discharge it to storage voltage but my ESC is broken, so riding the board isn’t an option.
What’s the safest way to do this?
Got a space heater?
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Good idea. Its rated for 13 amps though. How do I connect it without discharging the battery too much?
Also really good video on the DV6 ESC, so thanks for that.
At 48v a 120v space heater will only draw 5A on high (120v / 13A = 9.2Ω. 48v / 9.2Ω = 5.2A).
Monitor with a multi-meter and unplug it when it’s at the voltage you want. Will probably take an hour or two depending on battery size and charge state.
There is also a battery discharge option in the metr app that uses the motor in foc_openloop
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Yep this is what I would suggest. I haven’t actually tried it I just know people have before.
Discharging batts is always a trouble
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thanks guys. I’ll give it a shot
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