Is that a BMESC BM75?? Where did you get it? Do you have any PCB pictures?
Those are probably JST GH 1.25mm. You can confirm by measuring the distance between pins.
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Thanks dood! Problem is, it doesnt seem have to have actual pins, looks like little blades coming from both top n bottom. Got it from @frame maybe you could inform me what kinda piece i need in here? Or point me in the right direction on which vendor i could harass about this cheeky lil guy?
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Yeah, that’s 1.25mm. Give the JST GH a try.
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its jst gh with blade pin, that’s what the version with secure clip is design for
the top pin and bottom pin are paralleled to ensure even if the connector flex, there is still contact on either side
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Maybe I should ask this here
I’ve never had that issue while measuring resistance before, and I don’t think that is possible since it should just give no reading at all if the resistance is too high.
Although I think you might be measuring the new pot incorrectly. The two fixed ends should measure the full resistance/ highest resistance of the pot which would explain why you don’t see any range at all. If you haven’t tried it already, try measuring the resistance across one pin to the unused pin and see if that fixes the issue.
You would add the resistor across VCC and sensor. Here is a very badly made diagram of what I mean:
You’ll need to adjust the resistance range based on the original pot and you might need to mess with the remote settings as well just to get it fine tuned since depending on the resistor you add in, the new pot values won’t react the same way the old one did.
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I didn’t realize what exactly they were from the photo. I look dumb comparing them to spacers lol
Now I know that they exist which might be helpful in the future
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@ApproachCautiously I finally got it
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I was mistaken it wasn’t a regular potentiometre it was an hall sensor, hence the lack of variation when not powerd on
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those assholes purposely hid the PCB under a layer of colored epoxy and used the red for - and the black for +
So I had to burn a few before I figured it out
Well at least now it works, no need for extra resistors
Thanks for the advices 
Sounds like a Future Motion move
This is a crime.
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Yeah, an atrocious one, I could have continued burning them over for months before realizing it was that stupid
I’m doing repairs on a quad motor controller rn and this guy used ALL black wires with no labels, it’s a nightmare
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Well at least you know you need to check everything
While when all looks like it is supposed too you don’t suspect that until it’s too late
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Tis a fair point, I spent the last couple days just ripping everything out and getting new materials to do it all from scratch
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Does anyone have tips for getting the wheel off these 3dservisas gear drives? I can’t undo these bolts by hand and there is no way to fit a drill in there, I am bending my hex set trying to get these loosened. I didn’t install these so If I’m missing something let me know but it should just be those 5 bolts in the back right?
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Can you take the axle nut off first and take the whole wheel off?
In the future, the wheel hub should be assembled so that the 5 wheel nuts are on the inside of the hub 
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Oooof, there is no thread locker as far as I remember not sure why they so tight
So there’s no way to get the hub out of the way so that you can get closer to the bolts?