I’d say ease of manufacture (easier to make straight and/or conical than to make curved), and also unnecessary - I dunno about you but I’ve never had a flat from the tube touching the rim/hub, only from external factors like hitting a curb or getting a puncture.
Sure it might be technically better, but the perfect is the enemy of the good. The current design is good enough and isn’t causing problems, so why change for no obvious benefit?
What material are you guys using on your 3d printed risers?
Soo I’m trying to get some wire (22awg) into my buck converter terminal blocks (with screw), but when I’m pulling it (to see if it’s tight enough) I got the feeling the clamp isn’t good enough. So I’m looking for another solution. Now I do have some crimping eyes (don’t know the real name) and I bent them so they would fit the hole. The connection is way stronger in my opinion, but I’m curious if this would be a good solution or not and if not what would be better instead 
here some pictures: (I know I didn’t crimp it well with those wires coming out at the end)
If I don’t plan on swapping around the cables i would remove the terminal block and solder the cables directly to the pads.
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Hi peeps , been reading around but i couldnt find anything on motor-bearings and what their life-expectancy is … sorry if it’s been discussed already .
I never ride in wet conditions and road only. I’ve already done thousands of miles with the Maytech motors the Flux comes with.
They’re getting “noisy” but spin nicely ! I dont want them dying in the middle of a 65km trip.
What’s the life expectancy/mileage of motorbearings when “nicely treated” ? Can they be oiled ? Thanks dudes 
There is a good write-up of replacing motor bearings here. They do wear out eventually.
For small stuff i want to keep as a terminal block and not directly soldered, fine stranded copper or tinned wire should be put in a crimp ferrule imho. Just Tinning the wire and landing under the screw terminal fails in even low vibration environments because lead is soft and i think (haven’t researched it) thermal cycles loosen it up and that’s why it fails me. A dab of silicone will keep the screw torqued but heavily soldered wire will still back out.
Just for clarification, i am speaking about tinning the wire and puttIng it under the screw and not directly soldering here. Directly soldering will hold well.
Linked is the crimp im using now, i like the square shaped ones and the business end pointing out instead of the ones that come in from the side but they both crimp well.
Just solder it if you don’t want it to fail.
Kinda freaking out here.
Board was working perfectly fine. Groups were balanced and performance was perfectly as expected.
Then all of a sudden no power and only one motor would spin slightly.
… Did my BMS blow up?
100% solid tpu if you want some shock absorption, petg if you don’t
That 150C temp is worrisome.
Yeah but it’s the same on both temp sensors, and it’s not fluctuating, Nd both are exactly 150C which all leads me to believe there is an error. I don’t have a hex on my to open the enclosure up until I get home but there’s no noticeable heat anywhere except directly under the ESC, and even then only a tiny bit of heat
I feel like the balance plug may have become disconnected, or something, maybe the XT90S blew up…, idk I feel like it’s a connection issue… I hope it’s a connection issue… The only thing making me feel any better right now is that the board isn’t a fireball yet.
Ok home now. Lights on vesc/metr/remote are behaving normally.
Pack tests 38V
Weird, it was fully charged when I left.
Leads on charge port on BMS read 10.5V
VESC works perfectly on another battery.
Issue seems to be the BMS but I don’t have another 12s BMS with the same balance header to swap and test
I would take that BMS off even if you don’t have another one, and not ride that battery yet.
Unless you find the root cause, how do you know the BMS didn’t drain your whole battery. Although without anything getting hot, that’s not possible.
How long was it sitting? Are you 100% sure it was fully charged or only 99.99% sure?
Done and done. I fully agree. BMS balance plug is disconnected and the whole pack is sitting alone not connected to anything. Will be tracing balance leads later to look for crosses or shorts.
Charged overnight at 1.6A. LLT showed 50.2V and all groups balanced. Put it in an Uber for a 30 minute trip, waited at a spot for ~20 minutes then rode about 5 blocks, it cut out while riding, while at rest.
I made a jumper from a an extra wire harness i had and a jst female connector plugged into a jst male pcb mount connector to test a pack with a suspicious bms. Use any jst connector with the correct pitch, probably 2mm. I dont have a pic of the 13pin version on me but here is an old pic of the 2pin i made to test and balance a low p group on a 10s6p that was out of balance when i built it and I didn’t want to wait for the bms to do it’s thing.
Edit: removed wrong pic
Maybe that’ll help if you have enough junk lying around
I can make all that but idk what exactly to do with it yet. I’m really wanting to avoid tearing off nickel, anything I can do to avoid as much of that as possible would be great.
If you can get the to the balance connector you should be able to manually test the voltage. What you find will tell you what to do from there. If you can make an adapter (do not fuck up the phasing) and plug in a know good smart bms you can use it to check the pack
