Just took off the wheel adapter for the first time since I started using drives last year. The washers that I had put in are still in place and everything seems to look OK. I added quite some bearing oil, so far no change to the clicking noise. I feel like I can feel and hear that it’s coming from the the bearing, but could be wrong. Looks like there is a tiny whole at the most inner ring of the bearing, a little peace might have chipped off somehow?
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That hole near the shaft cutout edge is not a part of the bearing itself, and it looks like it is an intentional feature. You have a bearing with a rubber seal, and adding grease/oil means that you need to carefully take the rubber seal off. If you just added oil on top of the seal, it wont really do much.
If I were you, I would check if its possible take out the rotor of the motor, and then try to spin the bearings by hand. If you feel roughness, you most likely have a failed bearing. In that case you can press it out or take the motor to a machinist friend to press it out, and replace with a new one from a known good brand. Then also disassemble the old bearing to inspect it, that will tell us why it failed. Or send it to me and I will inspect it for free.
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It has not been running dry. And I cannot see any metal shavings either, which is a good thing I suppose. Adding more grease is always a good idea when you have access to a bearing, but in this case there is already a good amount of grease in the bearing, and added grease is unlikely to help you much. The bearing can still be damaged, so I would check if the motor rotor can be detached to give you better access to the bearing. Then you can spin it by hand and see what it feels like. It should not feel rough.
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I’m not sure if that label is all that’s needed, but at least we now know the dimensions of one of the bearings:
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Didnt see the other part of your message at first. Thanks that’s great info. I’d be happy to give this a try, as I’d love to have a full understanding of these motors to be able to maintenance them in the future. Not sure if should attempt to disassemble at this stage as they’re still under warranty.
I’m using “Bones speed cream”, it’s not grease. Maybe not the right product to use for this type of bearing?
Hmm yeah, good point, its probably a good idea to email Torqueboards at this point and see what they can do. Bones speed cream looks like a suitable product for bearings.
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Yeah, you can put grease in the front bearing. Have you testing the rear bearing? Usually, it’s rear bearing as it’s exposed to the outside.
Your looking at the front bearing in your photo.
The rear beerings I keep lubed on a constant basis. Some crazy voodoo magic just happened and the clicking is completey gone! Damn I’m happy about that. Seems to be related to the wheel adapter. Just now I simply screwed it back on and the clicking is gone. I’m guessing over time some kind of imbalance developed the the tightness of the bolts? Or it’s the washers below… No clue! But it’s gone! Also, thanks to the extra lube they’re now freerolling again like brand new. Glad to have that extra trick up my sleeve now. Those drives are beautiful @torqueboards. They make me happy every day, no joke! 
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Compare this to the “before” video I posted 2 days ago, the clicking issue (caused by the wheel adapter) is completely gone!
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Tried it, no success. Guess in my case exchanging the faulty part (what will hopefully not be the whole motor but only the bearing) and cleaning out the inner section of the motor will be the only solution.
For the record: Big bearing pointing to the inner part of the axle reads NSK 6908-VV (so inner diameter should be 40mm, outer 62mm, thickness 12mm), small bearing pointing to outer part of axle reads NSK 6904-VV, inner is 20mm, outer 37mm, thickness 9mm. At least for the 75kv model that is.
@torqueboards can you confirm and complete?
Also @torqueboards do i have to PUSH the stator out or could i also use a tool to grab the ridge of the smaller c-ring to pull the core out? As in “will the ridge be stable enough”?
I don’t have to remove the can screws, right?
Local Bike-Dealer managed to push out the stator. Pictures following later this day.
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Someone’s probably asked this already; but what’s the deal with those belts around the cans?
Attempt to avoid contact with stones etc. in case you hit some rocks or curbs. It’s not what torqueboards is shipping - as far as i know.
Awesome 
What price did you have to pay? Will have to let people know that they can do it this way. Let us know.
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Paid nothing. Friend of the family, so to say.
Guess he used something like this
http://www.pro-lift-montagetechnik.com/epages/78156040.mobile/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/78156040/Products/00140&Locale=en_GB
Think he used the screw thingy to push out the stator. Would take a screw-end with a diameter of 20mm to avoid widening the hollow end of the axle, though - similar to the diameter of the punch piece shown in Dexters pictures.
Will not manage to upload pictures today - i guess. Sure to come, though.
Question is: Big bearing to be pulled over the whole axle or just over the side with the 75kv logo?
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