If no metal is specified in the contents then it should work. I also battle hardened my first motors with normal epoxy putty, but it is tedious because of the very short processing time. Only mix small amounts and you have to be quick and clean immediately before filling the next few gaps. A damp cloth helps extremely when wiping away glue residues if it is done immediately.
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I can’t find anything saying there is metal in it and there was another version of the same brand that specifically said metal on the packaging but this one doesn’t.
I did 4 motors with 5 min liquid epoxy, it wasn’t a fun process 
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I found using acetone instead of water on the cloth does make cleaning up the magnets even more easy.
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I think it looks ok, mixed to much on the first time but all in all 8 min isn’t so bad to fill and clean a few slots.
The other 2 motors are even cleaner and the slots are filled better.
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Hello! =)
I bought myself a large hub motor for a scooter, which I am going to use for a 3sk8. Do you recommend battle hardening such large motors too? (I think it is important to mention here, that the board is a full suspension board, so I imagine there is less of a chance of anything breaking)
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I am curious to see a build thread…
Regarding your question, I have no idea, wouldn’t hurt to do it if you feel like it. Please take pics of the insides of that motors, never seen one.
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I am still waiting for some parts to come in - or rather be in stock (looking at you, @Trampa bigboy 18ply ^^).
As soon as everything is here and I cleaned up our workshop a bit (it is a total mess at the moment), I will make a build thread, including some 3D-printed and CNC’d stuff.
Well, I mean…unless I really need to, I would rather not open it tbh ^^
BUT since I have to find out which motor phase wire is which anyway to match with the ESC, I am afraid I won’t get around that…
I am a bit unsure because I heard that those large hub motors tend to get even hotter than your usual motors and if there is no real benefit, I think I will just skip the battle hardening
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Does anyone have an update on the milliput for battle hardening? Has anyone used it long enough to know how well it holds up to abuse in an outrunner rotor?
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yee, stator it is good, however in the rotor it comes loose. milliput is an epoxy putty so the adhesive properties aren’t great. in the stator it fully locks in if done all in one go (turns it into a brick) the rotor on the other hand it can’t lock in properly so loosens imo two part epoxy for rotor and epoxy putty for stator
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Thank you. I’ll continue my old procedure instead of trying it.
lmao they linked the wrong loctite
Loctite is a brand and not a product
But I am a huge fan of Loctite 290, and I would never use it for securing motor magnets.
I’d probably pick West System 650
I think the many loctite adhesives are epoxy. The kind that solidifies with lack of oxygen and contact with metal, or something. I think they likely soften too much with heat.
I don’t see a point in using epoxy putty on the stator as it locks in the heat and not as strong. Why not just use some thinner adhesive
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I think they were talking about the rotor.
I agree though, on the stator, something thin that wicks in, like MG Chemicals 4228, works well for me. Also seems like it traps less heat than an epoxy blanket.
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I rarely use it but seeing how it’s intended for stator windings it sounds ideal
Seems linseed oil is what used to be used ages ago.
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i wonder how a ghetto mineral oil cooling setup could work on 63xx
the motor casing could act as pump
Or could just squirt in water instead of mineral oil…assuming the windings and phases are all isolated