have you ever rolled up the Milliput, like in ball-bearing form and tested it? is it hard as rock? flexible? semi-flexible?
I’m definitely not familiar with Milliput.
I’m doing some experiments “for science” with Qwik Steel
If you ball it up like a ball bearing you can whaCK THE SHIT OUTTA THIS STUFF with a hammer, bounce it on the floor, it’s hard as shit, and like the milliput it is super easy to work with… mix it up really good, make a small play-doh worm out of it, jamb it in the crevice, and smooth it… it doesn’t clean up with water, that’s one of the things I like about it…
and it has a pretty good working life…
There is also https://avesstudio.com/shop/apoxie-sculpt/
This is my preferred epoxy material. It smooths with water as well as has a decent working time. I’ve never tried it on windings though.
QuikAluminum, by Polymeric Systems Inc., is an aluminum-reinforced epoxy putty stick formulated to quickly repair or rebuild anything made of aluminum. This fast-setting, industrial-strength aluminum epoxy bonds tenaciously to metals, curing tough and hard. No measuring or mixing tools are required for use, as each stick contains pre-measured portions of activator and base throughout and its putty-like consistency eliminates drips and runs for “no-mess” applications. Repair seams in rain gutters and downspouts, seal leaks in aluminum boats, fill in dents in recreational vehicles, rebuild torn screw holes in storm windows and doors, mend machine parts and castings, or repair leaky radiator, aluminum tanks and tubing. QuikAluminum can be drilled, tapped, machined, ground, filed or painted in just 60 minutes after application. Solvent and VOC-Free, this hand-mixable epoxy is non-rusting and will not shrink or pull away. Best of all, the unused portion stays fresh for future use when stored in its original packaging.
Faaaaaaaaaaaaaak I got high and fergot the reason I was sent down this train of thought…
excuse me… I got high! faaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaak…
People have been using ferretically*(my word)*-enhanced JB-Weld to afix magnets and battle harden motors for-fucking-ever but JB-weld is so pedestrian (sorry @b264) and messy, then I remembered qwikSteel and how easy it was to work with and how fukking strong it was…
so I’m 99% sure this will work… but even so, I’m going to do proof of concept on a $9 quad BLDC motor before I commit this unspeakable horror on a $100 esk8 motor…
EDIT TLDR:
bob talks about motor design. I knew I’d seen it somewhere he calls the rotor/can a bell as we do in kwads, or a “Flux Ring” and states from motor experts how
all motor bells are conductive
magnetic flux
cogging… no NOT THAT COGGING the cogging feeling when hand rotating a motor, and how and why it’s not good… it shows how strong, and also how weak the magnetic flux is
motor mfrs. are battling this cogging in many ways one is bu reducing the distance between magnets
elofty motors actually have NO gap between magnets… each magnet physically touches another magnet, and there is zero cogging
check out the ZMX motor bell and flux management
poorly designed flux management can cause radio interference… (this will require a whole other subject)
I lied above… all of my motors have a conductive flux ring on the bell, some however are pressed into 700series alum. for weight
Most of my concern about conductivity is attempting to battle harden the stator around the sensor PCB if it’s not conformal coated. Magnetic flux mysteries aside, that would just be shorting a PCB potentially.
Who knows, if I were on the price is right… 90% chance it’s going to be fine then. But, I am that dumb guy that would bid $2500 on an especially nifty looking ikea cabinet.
Further evidence, this is the song that is currently playing in my headphones.
I;ve used this same shit in the frontier used it to seal up crankcases and radiators, qwiksteeled pesos and rocks to aluminum… I think yours must be passed it’s used by date…
faaaaaaaaaaak am I gunna haveta go to the “shop” and get my qwiksteel… maybe tommorrow,
