the bms probably works though no? i assume all the ones i have work but just dont have a guide or use. i forget the brand but top quality stuff and huge. somewhere someone wants it
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it would require some secrets to activate I think, I meant if the battery was working out of the box. Plus with taking it out I get room for stuff, get to add bluetooth.
I would rather invest my time into trying to make the world’s first water-cooled Esk8.
ha. to cool the motor? gunna have to be a tiny motor to be worth it. but i have a hole in motors i make with that possibility. with the hotter hubs. one day we should figure it. one day i get tires, wheels, and hangers finally here
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nah the battery and ESC. The alu case has a “water cooling”(some liquid) loop in the top and the cells all have heatsinks that touch against it on one side. The esc’s just touching the alu case would technically be watercooled.
Motors too would be sweet but unless I get one of the E-foil motors “they”(China) don’t have anything usable or affordable.
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I think their LIFEP04 32650 cells are a bargain… Perfect for top mount batteries.
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I’ve been thinking of the same thing. Reason being is: there isn’t any perfect options to cool a bottom mount ESC. Sure, you can have a heatsink protruding through the bottom, but this is less than ideal because it won’t be as strong, and is more susceptible to being pushed in from the bottom. If you run them hard enough, all internally mounted ESC’s without ventilation will overheat, and water would easily solve the problem. You wouldn’t even need that much- the smallest PC radiators, maybe only 4" across, would be more than adequate to cool our ESC’s.
I’m going to eventually explore Flipskys water cooled options.
Golden Motor is a cool company that has water cooled PMSM’s, but none small enough for esk8.
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cant you just add a big strip of copper sheeting to the esc while it sits in the box and let some airflow in? seems a lot easier and safer than going with water. could even be really thin or whatever shape to match the space available. can just cut it with scissors. i dont know the best way to attach it but surely worth trying before going all the way to a water-cooling set-up.
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The water would be just for the meme, this alu box is probably more than effective enough with no water.
Exactly what I looked at.
This is how I’m planning on doing it for now. BMS inside the case and ESCs directly on the water-cooling loop. The phase wires would go out where those fittings are so if I wanted to add water cooled motors it would be set up for it.
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Not sure on the temptation myself - they’re 2c discharge recommendation, not sure what the actual continuous discharge is going to be and because of that its hard to really be interested other than the price.
BHU is sometimes a bit conservative with their ratings. I think they are rated for 15A continuous, and they certainly can endure higher peaks and some good charge rates, after all, they are used in a well-performing EV.
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I dont think there are any official numbers on these cells are there? BHU always posts conservative numbers and thus far the testing I’ve seen out there has been pretty casual. I haven’t seen anybody reputable really put them through their paces with accurate equipment yet, although if you have, I’d love a link?
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I agree, and we can infer some numbers by comparison to similar 21700 cells, these are gonna be somewhere between 40T and 50Es, but the Tesla cells historically have been a bit better on pushing amps for their capacity.
15-20A continuous sounds about right to me, and 25-30A burst seems easy. Should be a highly economical middle ground between the 40T/p42a for more cap in less amp hungry builds… I’d think these would be killer for range on street boards.
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Exactly. In essence the 21700 version of the 30Q.
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That’s my problem - no information out there on if these cells will perform well at 15amp as its all assumption, which means by the time we (specifically I) get any details, these will likely be long gone. I primarily want these for my current build which is a mountain board. If I had a street only board i’d not concerned.
But silver lining 
if I cant be convinced it means there’s 100-300 more cells out there for one of you guys.
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I get that for sure. Personally I’d be hard pressed to look at anything other than 40T or p42a’s for the build you describe. I’m going with p42’s for mine, $4.7 each is pretty hard to beat.
That said, I think I am gonna take a chance on these model 3 cells for a street build, and hell, may as well see how hard we can push them.
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And this is how I ended up with 500 of these cells.
This is everyone else’s fault but my own.
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Ahh the advantages of living in a society that’s progressively rejecting the expectations of personal responsibility… It’s a beautiful world! Amiright? 
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