Battery questions


I was taking a look at my battery pack today is this normal

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Could you take a photo where the hole is in focus? :sweat_smile:

Honestly just looks like something was rubbing against that spot. I would probably put some tape over it, make sure nothing rubs there again by gluing stuff down / adding some foam, and then not thinking about it again

No, that is not normal.
It appears that the metal can or pouch for that cell has been pierced. If true then you must stop using that pack and replace that cell. The liquid inside the cell will evaporate and the cell will die. Even worse, that liquid is flammable and the vapor or any liquid that leaks out could catch fire.

If the can/pouch has not been pierced then there still might be a big problem as no cell should ever be used when physically damaged. It increase the risk of an internal short-circuit and that can cause a fire.

Looks like I was wrong, see below.

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That’s an acedeck pack. From the look of it, we’re looking at the external heatshrink of the pack that has a little hole in it peaking into the FR4 sheet under it.

That’s not a cell/nor is it a pouch. He just has a tiny hole in his heatshrink :sweat_smile:

@Kingesk8nyc you’re fine. In the future, if you want advice, take good pictures. Otherwise you’ll confuse everyone.

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Ok sounds good i make sure to take better photos next time

It’s not too late to take better photos this time :slight_smile:

more information = better dignosis & safety

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That heat shrink looks distinctly metallic. :slightly_smiling_face:
You’re saying it’s a reflection from the plastic wrap that’s doing that?

I’ve opened up that board a few times. The perspective is through the little ESC gap where you’d be looking at the front end of the battery

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Thanks.
I can’t get past that looking like metal but the yellow is a common G10\FR4 color and you guys know a lot more about that board than me. I have edited my earlier post.

@Kingesk8nyc, looks like I raised the alarm for no reason, my apologies.

It happens @Battery_Mooch

I have a problem I am building my board and life got in the way and i was not able to finish it for a long time any way I just got the Moli cells 21700 in for a 12s3p for a set of Torque boards Direct Drives. They are 80 max amps a piece. Would I get away with a 12s3p? What do you recommend?

Yes, you can get away with 12s3p, though I wouldn’t recommend climbing any mountains or long, steep hills with it. If you mainly want to ride it on mostly flat terrain with occasional hills, it should be fine.

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Thanks. Hey would you know ware i could find a wiring diagram for my batt compartment. Like wahatt is the correct order to wire in the BMS, Chargeport and ESC to the battery and on Negative or Positive?

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you should make a build thread, and try posting pics maybe.

there are a shit ton of BMS guides.

here are some how NOT to’s… I find them more fun to look at.

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I typically follow the installation instructions from the BMS manufacturer. At the bottom of the following page you will find a detailed wiring diagram: https://www.lithiumbatterypcb.com/product/13s-48v-li-ion-battery-pcb-board-54-6v-lithium-bms-with-60a-discharge-current-for-electric-motorcycle-and-e-scooter-protection-2-2-3-2-2-2-2-2/

Most people in esk8 bypass discharging so that there’s no chance the BMS can disrupt the circuit when you need it the most (going down hill, for example). This also means we can purchase the lowest rated discharge BMS in any particular model. When the BMS is bypassed in this manner, it only manages charging, and balancing.

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LLT BMS auto detect version wiring guide
JBD BMS auto detect version wiring guide








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