Where does the MakerX Go Foc ship from? Anything from outside EU is a 25% markup for me…
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China I think. Is there a EU based unity supply that I am unaware of?
FatDaddy.nl 400Euro, to picture their businessmodel.
Electricboardsolutions.com in Belgium 260Euro.
MakerX seems great, competitive pricing thankfully.
But their website is plain and without direct contact-info nor references.
I assume MakerX is a trusted supplier in the community, since you suggested?
Yes, lots of people running his stuff. Use the search, you’ll find numerous threads. Decent shipping time, ~2wk to the US in my experience. I run two different MakerX models and both are great. My friend has one as well that we will be installing soon.
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@Walter I think if you message @YUTW123 he can under declare the price for customs so you don’t pay tax
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https://derelictrobot.com/collections/battery-builder-kits/products/12s4p-vtc5a-battery-pack
(Sameless plug)
lol whoops you’re EU my bad 
12s will give you more speed on your direct drives, but even if you dont actually use the speed, a higher voltage system (12s vs 10s) will run more efficiently and with less heat, for the same power output.
This is due to the equation Watts=Volts*Amps, where Watts are the output of your motor.
If those motors are rated for 25A continuous, then:
36V(10s nominal voltage) * 25A = 900W total output from each motor.
Whereas,
43.2v(12s nominal voltage) * 25A = 1080W per motor.
So you can get more power with the same amount of Amps. Or you can get the same power with less Amps, therefore generating less heat in your ESC’s and motors, as well as putting less strain on your battery.
Hope that makes sense 
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Besides the actual good information. Why suggest a battery builder from the US to someone in Europe?
Plenty of good options across the pond…
I suggest you contact someone like @pjotr47 or any of the other battery builders/ vendors mentioned here: [WIKI] Trusted Battery Builders (Serious)
There is also a few people that build batteries in the whatsapp group I DM’d you that arent active on the forum. Feel free to ask around there.
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This is a great question, and my terrible answer is that in my haste to shill my own products, I missed the fact that they are EU 
Thanks for catching me on that 
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This wouldn’t apply if the motor kv is the same and he is going the same speed. It’ll only matter if he changes the kv/ pulley ratio (wheel size for DD’s).
Since the rpm = kv*volts
10s: “I want to go 25kph” > VESC sends 24v to the phase wires to the motor at X amps
10s: “I want to go 45kph (max speed)” > VESC sends 42v to the phase wires to the motor at Y amps
12s: “I want to go 25kph” > VESC sends 24v to the phase wires to the motor at X amps
12s: “I want to go 45kph” > VESC sends 42v to the phase wires to the motor at Y amps
12s: “I want to go 52kph (max speed)” > VESC sends 50.4v to the phase wires to the motor at Z amps
X < Y < Z amps
But in the first two examples at 25 and 45kph, X = X and Y = Y
12s is good because you’ll have the option to go faster and faster as you gain more experience in this sport
Also, 12s “last 5 %” speed is faster than 10s “last 5% speed”. 10s lowest speed with your setup should be ~30kph. If that is too slow for you, then get 12s for the sake of being able to sustain “fun speed” for longer
Its still less amps from the battery and thus less heat and sag.
The heat from the pack > short wire > VESC is marginal.
It only really matters for people that change the pulley gear ratios that allow the motor itself to spin at a higher (and more efficient) speed
If you look at the battery tests by Mooch, you’ll find that when you pull more amps from any battery, the total energy it can output becomes lower. Therefore you will want to load your batteries less to get more range. If you can just use 12S3P instead of 10S3P for example, then it definitely helps your range, in addition to speed of course. There is also more total Wh in the 12S battery.
Then if you want to compare 12S and 10S setups with about the same amount of cells, like 10S5P and 12S4P, then the issue becomes more complicated and we should start talking about the more minor things that affect performance.
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yeah, but I digress.
Unless it doesn’t fit in your board, or unless you’re using a 4.12vesc (that tends to be sketchy with 12s), you should just go with 12s.
If you are worried about the speed, you can limit it in the VESC software erpm to cap your top speed
We send DHL, we usually declare a lower amount, such as $30. So customers don’t have to pay too much tariff
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Love you all lads, but hey hey heY!, dont forget the opening post: mainly curving at moderate speeds, hardly any cruising (although group-rides are on my bucketlist). For my cruising a max. speed of 30kmh is to low, but 40kmh would suffice me for a decent while I think.
My deck would have a very moderate length as well.
For this build, its direct drive but bigger wheels akin to gearing.
Higher voltage battery pack always means less sag (improving lifetime and range)
To much heat in motor means less efficency (bad for range and bad for lifetime)
I would think sag is a minor factor for the range, because in parallel any P42A configuration would be more then able to provide the 50-60Amps
What does it mean for the VECS to have a (to) high voltage for the wattage required for the ride-style(high torque)? Isn’t higher voltage creating more heat in the VESC at moderate demands? What usually creates heat in the VESC, (volt/watt/amps)?
And, are torque and speed/rpm equivalent in demand for Amps to the motor?
(This probably gets complicated…:S)
I just decided I’ll pick my battery arrangement once I have the motors in, then I can make a deck-enclosure arrangement.
Yet to learn how to quote clips from previous post. And editing of post is not enabled here (?), or not yet for me.
For my next build I’ld opt for the MakerX, but for now it seems I am catered with a Unity, time will tell.
For purchasing batterys I found the Forum Members.
OMG, slipping down to 12s even…
The rule is P=I^2*R where P is the power, some of this will become heat. I is amperage and R is resistance. The higher the amperage, and the resistance, the hotter everything can get. You have no control over the resistance, only the amperage, so you have to worry about amps. While increasing voltage also increases the power, it is also more efficient, so the amount of heat produced stays the same.
12s should still hit 40kmh with a near dead battery.
10s would hit ~36kmh with a near dead battery.
(So go with 12s if that is important to you)
Amps flowing through the VESC mosfets
Amps into the motor windings.
Voltage doesn’t create heat, just the amps.
But max speed at 12s will use more amps than max speed at 10s and thus get hotter. (duh, if you think about it. You gotta use more power to go fasterer)
if you have the same motor + wheel setup, it’d use the same amps at the same speeds regardless of 10s, 12s. 12s will only use more amps when it goes faster than the 10s max speed
Great info, thx.
My question on the battery is answered.
My next thread will show the built / result.
For the deck it will be based on what I’ve learned from Art of carving
Welcome Walter 
I know Im late to the party so I want to say sorry at first 
nice battery choice 
The built is finished, at last.
Published within DIY-builds;
SuzyQ-selfbuilt-dd-107mm-12s4p-40t-unity-vx1-streetcarver
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