You mean wh/km or wh/mi?
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Thats what I was thinking, yeah. I cant see wanting to go much faster than 40mph (from the calc), but I can definitely see wanting to go up a hill at speed.
@BenjaminF 120mm should be fine on TB DD but I wouldn’t go higher. 120mm would be better on 75KV. BTW Our 110mm 74A. Foamies = NO GO. 
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wh/km, my bad
I meant the torque is nowhere present
The 90kv aren’t meant for torque from stand still, but once past 10/15km/h, it pulls like a truck (not on AT)
@BenjaminF Yep, at, least for me. The might cog after really stepp/long one (overheat), but only had one issue with that on a 25% hill, 1500 meters long, hauling like crazy.
I wanted the 75kv, but received the 90kv instead, never had an issue after 1500 km riding them, and the 110’s did not chunk yet (Coming from a Raptor 2.1, it’s impressive for me)
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Thanks for the reviews!
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Changing the Kv on a DD won’t Make any difference to motor heating if you keep the Same Motor Current / Motor Kv relationship, if you lower the Kv and keep the current the same it will only get hotter
I believe he means that Torqueboards has 2 sets of DD: The 75kv (high torque) and the 90kv (high top speed).
The 75kv will do a better job than the 90kv to move with AT wheels
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Depends, if increasing the current on 90 Kv makes it works, the the 75 Kv will work with a lower motor current, easing the load on the ESC, but there is a big chance that the motor is already saturating badly with the current needed to achieve decent performance with pneumatics, in this case changing the Kv won’t help, that’s is even ignoring the heat generated
This is experiment I recommend everyone to do, print a pulley that goes over the motor one and run a 1:1 gear ratio, preferably with smaller wheels
Even 190 Kv works wonderfully, if you an esc that can handles the current, don’t try that on the ones rates far less or it will overheat in no time because you need high currents to keep the performance with the higher Kv, but for the motor itself it makes no difference in torque capability or heat generation using a high Kv with higher current or a lower Kv with lower current
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I get your point, but we are talking about torque in this case. The 90kv does not have enough torque to be able to move nicely up hills, of from a standstill, while the 75kv will better perform in this are (with same Am/V going through in both case
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That is true, but only if you are esc limited, if not it’s just a matter of increasing the motor current by 20% and they will perform exactly the same
How is your build coming along? I am curious
Looks pretty and slick/clean to me! Thanks for the update and keep up the nice work!
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Thank you! I’ll post updates here once the build is finished.
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Slightly unrelated to this topic, but does anyone know if the TB AT wheels will fit on kaly helical gear drive?
Some more pictures:
Next steps:
- Find a sorter kingping that fits well on the @mikenyc adjustable baseplates
- Make a mini-kydex sealed enclousure for the connections
- Put some glass frit
- Route the deck to insert the Unity power botton and charger port in this plates (the ones with the holes) that @3DServisas is making for me. Same as @rey8801 original ChooChoo deck postion.
- Find a 44T Kegel adaptar that fits on my Evolve GTR and also fits on this @Janux-esk8 hubs, so I can swap wheels between this board and the Evolve without changing anything else but the wheels on both boards. This is the Evolve one.
Working on it!
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Damn it looks awesome! Amazing
You probably know already but keep other wheels as option for the DD, 6 inch is not really appropriate for them.
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Yes, I know thanks! I have the TB110, same as you 
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