Bambu Lab X1 Carbon: Info & Discussion (SRO)

I want to put them on other things while I mull this purchase over.

I’m impressed with the manufacturers responsiveness 3d printing general mentioned in his 30 day impression video

1 Like

Yeah they have been generally pretty responsive thus far. Time will tell!

1 Like

Is that failed print at 150m/s?
Lol m/s would be more than 300mph. Obviously meant M&M/s

Technically first layer prints at “only” 50mm/s

But for real - the blue petg from Jarees popped out perfect prints so I have no clue what happened

1 Like

Is that rail road track looking thing at front of bed a calibration structure for the LiDAR ?

That is correct, it’s part of the calibration sequence

This is more what it’s supposed to look like (ironically this is ABS printing perfectly rn)

1 Like

I pulled out another roll of glitter black PLA that I have never been able to get to print nicely before, and decided to try out a benchy on the “ludicrious” speed setting for fun.

Not only was I (un?)surprised to see the X1C print with the filament without issue, but the benchy is looking damn good for having been printed at roughly 350mm/s.

5 Likes

@ShutterShock @landonkun updates? Any new successes, failures, or hiccups to report?

I was away on a trip, only done a couple prints since then.

Printed a FULL BED enclosure (255x235ish) and found some issues. There is a corner of the bed that is closed out due to the filament cutter, and the only way to print there is to disable the blocked region, and hold back the filament cutter with a wire (this ofc causes end-of-print issues because it always cuts the filament and spools it back up at the end of the print)

This is a very specific use case though. Printed with PLA+, two different colors, and had zero warping. I ran bed leveling and flow calibration on all three prints (floor, walls, lid) and scraped off the excess before it started the real print

2 Likes

For those of us unfamiliar with this machine and all it’s components, can you explain more about this?

3 Likes

So basically, there is a filament cutter built into the chamber of the printer, and it is activated by moving the printhead to a very specific location on the bed. There is a small square of the bed in the front left where it resides, and it’s normally defined as a print exclusion zone.

This exclusion zone is in the settings and you can turn it off, although it could pop off the front of the hotend if you aren’t careful. It’s really a non issue though except for very specific prints that use the ENTIRE bed

2 Likes

Hey Landon! I’ve been working on my just-unpacked X1 Carbon for a few days as well and wanted to ask wether you had problems with your model seams… I am printing them with the “aligned” settings and despite the rest of the print being absolutely flawless (poor PLA turning really smooth and so on) the seams stick out like crazy… they are wide, irregular and super visible. Tried printing at all speeds and doesn’t change.

I haven’t had too much of a problem with them, usually they auto align in good places

One model has a partly visible one but not bad. Pictures?

Bringing your thread back here because my X1C is due in next week. Been reading as much as I can. Any new insights since your last posts here @ShutterShock @landonkun @Braghebrevi ?

Unless you’re printing the filaments on the engineering side of the default plate, the textured PEI is definitely the way to go. Great release every time, and no stupid glue.

I do use the engineering side for printing PC though.

Other than that, it’s been great! I will probably post some pics of prints here if I remember, soon.

1 Like

Awesome, thanks. I just got a PEI plate for my Ender 3 Pro as well and it is awesome… should have done it a long time ago

1 Like

I like printing PETG and saw you had some issues previously. I read on Reddit to slow the speed down to “normal” - around 30, and once your first layer is down you can up the speed. Have you had better luck with it since your problems before?

Any chance to try TPU yet? I don’t have the AMS, so it will be manually loaded on the back.

No problem with PETG on PEI at full speed. The problems were only on the stock plate, and at that, it already had some bubbles which further increased those issues. Keep your PEI clean with ISO and you’ll be fine.

I have not tried TPU, I have that loaded in a different printer

2 Likes

Sorry, don’t come on here much these days.

There’s not much to update about my X1C, because it just effin’ works. Constantly have perfect results.

Like Shutter said, the textured PEI plate is great. It’s all I ever use now. I’ve used it with PLA, PETG, and PA-CF, and it’s been flawless.

As a side note, I personally never had issues with PETG on the stock plate. I would run it at its stock speed with zero issues (and never ran into bubbling either).

4 Likes

Thanks for the update! I just got my textured PEI plate in on Friday and ran one PLA print on it that went great. So freakin easy to remove prints from PEI and no screwing around with the glue stick. I’ll see how it does for me with PETG as well