I’m gonna be using the key switch on the throttle I got to switch on/off an antispark
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I might give those a try if the universal socket doesn’t work.
Speaking of jank fixes I don’t have any thin wire that long so I’m cutting up some USB cables.
Improvise. Adapt. Overcome.
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Oh, dope. Can I pick up a set from you when I bring the wheels by?
That said, I am officially at 7 days from my last tracking update on my wheels.
Anyone else’s wheels lost in transit?
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Box must’ve 'sploded
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@Scepterr is 18awg ok for the phase wires? (stolen from a broken power supply)
The universal socket worked good enough for a test but I should get normal m12’s for sure.
i wouldn’t trust that 18awg, maybe if triple up per phase
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I found some 14awg that should be good, perfect for a MR60 i think.
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Oof. 2017… you sure you still got them?
Also. Anyone one know what size nut am i going to need for these axles?
M12 1.25 on mine
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@Fosterqc @Scepterr
UPDATE ON THE WIRING
Turns out they don’t have a thermistor to monitor temp, the white wire is what’s attached to side mounted hall sensor to monitor speed. So don’t wire that into your vescs, it could cause problems. Also verified by having no thermistor output when checked with a DMM. Wouldn’t be too hard to remove this sensor and wire up a thermistor.
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Hmm alright, I had just found the perfect 6 strand cable…
Yeah, looks like you’ll only need 5 of those strands. Unless you wanna add a 10k thermistor. I’d send you one for the cost of shipping.
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Yeah I think I’ll solder on the wire to the motor side but leave it off when I join to the JST connector, can hook the wire up if/when I tear it apart and add that and grease it.
THX for the help! going to try to test today I don’t have any heat shrink to solder with tho 
oh ffu k I odn’t have a throttle either. SHit forgot to order it
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I would use some electrical tape, or any kinda tape for short term then.
Wiring a thermistor should be very straight forward. Cut the trace that I have x’ed in red, and then solder the thermistor to GND and SP with the blue dots. Then just glue it next to the stator.
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sounds sketch, guess I see how it looks when done.
It’s not too hard in this case. It looks like it’s a single layer, double sided PCB. So as long as you don’t completely cut through the PCB it won’t affect anything else. You can cut it with a razor blade or slice through it with edge cutters like in the picture below. After I cut I was able to lift the trace up and cut it. Note: I probably cut a little deeper then needed, better to do more thin cuts then one deep one.
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Here’s the finished result, I just have to conformal coat the solder joints and glue the thermistor to the stator.
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Oooh I have a bunch of skate thermistors from my 3d printing. I believe they’re 10k too.
Nope 100k and the glass bead would probably crack under vibration anyway.
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