AWD Eskate-Kart | 100kv Maytech hubs | 4.12 FSESC's | Left and Right throttles

Wow, NOICE

3 Likes

I still need to get an enclosure made, but for testing I think it worked out to have everything exposed so I could quickly troubleshoot if I had to.

1 Like

Make sure you have a belt or side-to-side restraints because at some point soon, you’re going to want to slide that :smirk:

2 Likes

HAHA!

The way I have laced up the seat back, and the 3mm foam I have on the seat does a pretty good job at keeping the butt planted. I think I would need to get a higher durometer wheel to slide. When designing I was trying to keep as much weight as possible in the center which kind of makes for a goofy seating position, but keeps this thing planted even when it gets a little crazy.

The first tests of V1 led to a pair of ripped pants from the kart turning and the driver remaining straight before the stick on foam hahaha (Newtons 69th law or something.)

1 Like

Weld failed. No one got hurt. The excessive wear on the wheel is from coming to a rolling stop after the failure.

Before that, the kart had hit 29MPH and was coming back around for take 2.

Luckily it is an easy fix. Going to fix the weld, swap to fresh outter wheels, and make an enclosure. Going to get pics and videos of it as a finished unit before we rip it again. I am happy that the speed loss I felt yesterday was fixed by reconfiguring the throttle PWM numbers on the speed controllers.

4 Likes

Making some foam dust and shaping this enclosure out.

After bondo, and paint, and turtle wax, and wrapping the deck and securing the mold in position with packing tape, I shall lay fiberglass.

5 Likes

JK the bondo I got DID NOT like the foam!

Will packing tape and spray on mold release do the trick to allow me to get this thing out after I cover it in fiberglass?

It won’t be beautiful but I figure I’ll do a thick resin coat on top, knock it down and do one more on top to make it prettier. (Already planning for bad stuff to happen!)

Tons and tons of partall paste, I think

Or if MEK or acetone eats the foam maybe just eat it all from the middle of the part :rofl:

1 Like

I had this left over from a carbon fiber project I did. Just found it!!! Covering the packing tape in it now

1 Like

@glyphiks has an atrocious amount of experience

2 Likes

Using a mold release will definitely help, but epoxy resin won’t stick very well to packing tape. Using the packing tape as a mold sealer is a great idea, and a mold release on top will give the best chance of seperating the part from the buck.

That said, that buck is super deep, with not a lot of draft. I predict you are gonna have a bit of a struggle to get that released. Once it is cured, get a rubber mallet or other tool that isn’t going to marr the surface, and give it a good beating all the way round. Then you’ll wanna get some wedges to try and release.

4 Likes

Right on! I am prepared to have to fight / destroy the foam.

Cutting mat and cloth pieces and will attempt the wet out in a few hours. Stay tuned.

3 Likes

Now that understand what it’s actually like to lay down fiberglass… I think I am going to knock all the high spots down, do another layer or 2 and then sand it again and do a top coat of resin.

I really want this to not look like shit and I think that means that I will have to do a crap ton of “body work” on it before I paint it. So yay!

PS. I wore a respirator and those fumes are gnarly!!!

2 Likes

Which epoxy have you used?

1 Like

Bondo brand Fiberglass resin

2 Likes

Yup. That was a fight!

It’s gonna need some rework in a spot or 2 but I am super happy with how strong it seems to be. I am going to fiberglass cloth all the edges and mat all flat surfaces one more time before I do a hot coat of resin and start to “body work” it with a shit of of flavors of sand paper and then a skim of bondo, primer, paint and clear.

8 Likes

Did a little fiberglass repair from the original lay up and then started to add some bondo and sanding to get it closer to paint.

I don’t want it perfect, I just want the majority of it to look good. Slightly lumpy is ok. I am shooting for a solid 10 footer hahaha. Semi gloss instead of high gloss paint should help as well.

Progress has been slow because it is 98* F and the garage is hot as hell. Really have to mentally prepare (and hydrate) before I go out and work on it.

Tomorrow I should have it in a spot where I am cutting out the holes for the throttle indicators and the Davega OS and be prepping for paint… how knows, maybe I’ll have a great day and get it painted too! Ha!

8 Likes

Got a late start today.

Couple more spots to sand out and then a few more coats of primer and possibly sand some of those down too before I switch to the black and semi matte clear.

4 Likes

5 Likes

After a few rounds of sanding, bondo-ing, sanding, priming, wet sanding, bondo on some newly found spots… etc. the first coat of black paint is on.

Going to let it dry over night. Wet sand with 600 grit and spray it with black again before I switch to matte clear coat. The bottom 2” aren’t going to look good and I’m ok with that. Just want a decent finish on the top 95% and make it present well from 10 feet.

Good from far, far from good.

12 Likes