Yeah I’m interested in what the process looks like for that. My neighbor is getting near finishing his wood shop, I think I will ask to put a diy CNC in.
Making a bunch of wood electric karts sounds super fun.
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Steering column support built. It will be covered with a fiberglass enclosure on the final.
Need to find someone that can reconfigure my 10s5p to be more a brick than its current state.
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Shoot me a PM if ya not looking for someone local.
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This is the ideal battery layout to fit in the enclosure space I am giving myself to work with.
roughly 120mm tall, 120mm high and 170mm wide.
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It was in the 50’s so I had it out for some testing!
Final design has sides to keep the driver in the seat!!!
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Any info anyone can share about using an arduino and UART to control a board would be helpful. I would love to have speed settings and a reverse.
This week the joysticks are getting wired up to operate the motors rather than the Flipsky remote.
http://vedder.se/2015/10/communicating-with-the-vesc-using-UART/
Got the joysticks and the light bars coded together and the esc’s configured!
MAJOR BREAK THROUGHS!!!
Now I need to model a steering wheel to hold the joysticks and new caps for the joysticks. (Among a million other things!)
So excited about this and I FINALLY feel like it is coming together!
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school is kind of closed, kind of switched to online classes. Tightening up my renders and they are starting to look spicy! shoutout to McMaster Carr for having their hardware available as Solidworks files on their website!
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Veneer came in! Waiting on epoxy and to CNC the mold.
1/16” hard maple in 25x48” sheets.
The plan is to do 8 layers and then a top and bottom layer of cabinet veneer for a seamless top and bottom. ( 6 of the 8 plys are long grain and will be zig zag cut and butted at various spots to get the length I need but the top and bottom veneers will cover that up)
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More testing, this time with the throttles working on the steering wheel. The original concept of manually controlled torque vectoring is looking like it could have the potential to be quite fun.
Got the code on to a Teensy 3.5 board and integrated it onto a perma proto bread board for a more compact and durable design. LED bars and Teensy are powered by the 5v from a single speed controller so there the loop key powers it all on
Need to work on the brake settings on the VESC tool. They are weak at high speed. But are as strong as they should be at slow speeds.
Working on a process video for class I’ll post when it’s done.
The final build will be so much fun when it is stiffer, the wheels are better aligned, and the steering wheel involves less zip ties and plywood. Super excited to get the deck build started!!!
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this looks so cool man.
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it is coming along. I am really excited to build the final version of this… One that I’m not fearful of it snapping mid test drive and can look a little prettier than my testing model.
I am still designing the actual bearing setup for the steering arms and think I have figured out what to do to make it steer smooth.
Having 2 of these sandwiched between the deck by the front steering arms to make for an easier to turn steering wheel, plus whatever play there is between the 2 filled with shims.
Thoughts?
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Batteries today got shipped to @BluPenguin for her to do some magic on the battery. I have a 120A fuse waiting when it gets back and can’t wait to feel what it feels like with another P group.
10s2p and a 10s5p are getting turned into a 10s6p (not enough room for a 10s7p) and a fat ass 120A fuse going to be used on the discharge side to play it “safe”
Super excited to have made this next step in the drive train as I plan to get the bend plywood fabrication moving!
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Depending on where you are riding this, you may want a fuse on solely the charging port and not much else, I’d rather ruin a couple 4.12’s from a short or overcurrent than lose my brakes going into traffic.
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I’m not worried about the ESC’s either… more just a battery going up in flames. This is my first dealings with an EV of any type so batteries are scary.
I have about 2 weeks before I get the battery back and decide to use the fuse or not. Perhaps more research will mean that I keep from running the fuse and do just go with a charge side only inline fuse.
However this will in no means be on the road… it’s more of an empty parking lot toy.
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I see, yeah I’d preserve the battery in this situation, doesn’t really matter if you lose acceleration or braking in a parking lot.
Duuuuude this is sick!
But if your battery regen is 0, where does the braking current go?
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huh? My regen will be 10A per motor after 10s6P, or are you taking if the fuse is installed and trips?
It is currently 4A per motor but I now understand I can set the value higher.