I bought an Ares x3 2nd hand from an esk8 online group. My credit wasn’t the best at the time or else I would have went through Acedeck officially with Klarna. I already have a frankenstein project board with fixing my Propel Pivot with a different Gear Drive. Is it really Worth to try and salvage and save this board from 2023?
I get 12 miles of range out of the board. Im 190 Pounds, Its supposed to be a 777wh battery. Ive gotten the same amount of Range from Isinwheel, and Tynee Stinger products and those boards were severly cheap on the quality side.
The seller laughed at me when I expected actual decent range “From a race board” and now I’m pissed I’m out $850 on a board he knew wasnt that good. My propel pivot with a 864 wh battery Genuinely gave me 35+ miles of range so I know I’m not being entitled for being ripped off here.
What’s your average riding speed when you’re getting 12 per charge? It is a 4wd board so it’s powering two sets of motors, and it’s only a 14s3p P42A battery.. 740wh max/635wh nominal. If you’re riding at decent speeds (20+) then 12mi sounds realistic. Don’t ever believe any range estimates you read from most board manufacturers out there.
No, this is the gear drive 2023 version with 1 set of motors. Im not going any faster than 18mph but around the 11 or 12 mile mark, the board shuts off a few times trying to fling me off and then burns out with an Overheating warning. If my 864 wh battery can give me 35+ miles of range and my tynee stinger with 544wh can give me 26, this Ares 775wh battery giving me 12 miles is total garbage.
Ah ok, I thought it was the previous 4wd X3. 12mi does sound low for a 14s3p 50S pack on thane wheels, but again if you’re ripping speeds a fair bit it will kill your range big time. I could kill my old Zealot 12s2p pack in 7-8mi by riding at a constant 20~
if it’s throwing an overheat warning I’d maybe pop open the gear drives and see if there’s anything in there causing excessive drag, which will hurt range and heat up your motors.
Ya i don’t buy used unless u know the seller. Esk8 sellers are the equivalent to used car salesmen. Asides from a majority of the ppl i know on this forum, i know for a fact almost every esk8er that doesn’t build or race abuse their boards. I’m so amazed there aren’t more fires as a result from it. I got my x3 gd from Drew elia. I put hoyt 5 inch AT tires on them. And u believe its actually 756 wh capacity with the 50s cells if anyone wanna check me in that. I get roughly 22 miles range in it. So it sounds like you got battery issues. Did you ever get it resolved?
On another note, i absolutely hate the jkesc and remote. The thumb wheel is too loose and i have a hard time feeling the dead zone on it between the acceleration and braking. Sometimes it’ll roll forward without me realizing it. And not too mention those class of esc have a huge dead band between the acceleration and braking and so it feels like 3 business days going from acceleration to actually feel the brakes engage. So I’m making it a project to do a vesc conversion. Tricky part is the stock esc is basically welded into the heatsink, so the heatsink needs to be cnc’ed and then i can put a makerx in place of it and maybe use a vx4 remote. I’ll probably keep the stock motors to save on cost and keep the phase amps at a decent area. I know stock wise is at 60a per side on the motors.
No I never did get this fixed or my money back from venmo. I was gonna hold out until I get to a better spot and send the board in to theboardgarae .com but with how jerky this esc is and the amount of times Ive had to do the walk of shame or almost get thrown off this thing is fucking insane. I can’t stand that the guy from facebook sold this to me
Dude! I hate the jerkiness of this board with the jkesc. Though it’s better than hw and lingyi were 5 years ago but still sucks. Mine seemed to lost 25% of its range from sitting around for a year unridden. So ya… i feel ya on this board but mario makes great batteries at board garage. He built one for me! Let me know how much it runs you!
So small update on my ares for you. My buddy assessed the battery pack since i was having similar issues like you where my boards charge would drop dramatically. For my a board with +700 wh capacity should be me over 20 miles with AT tires and i had the 5 inch hoyt in it. The range dropped to 1 bar and projected my range to be 15-17 miles. Way less than what I’m suppose to get. So my buddy looked at it and found the the batteries were really unbalanced meaning the bms sucked. He’s changing the bms out and hopefully they should fix it.
Yeah I was looking at the Nomad n1 2 in 1 Gear Drive Variant as a potential street board in my quiver but there’s just been too many sketch quality control issues with Acedeck and Esc’s. Re-reading over this thread has reminded me that after I get that Linnpower OX ER, I’m pretty much done with pre builts with the this mockery of a coinflip of whether or not the board is safe or not. I keep forgetting alot of companies see us as the guinea pigs for this sport. Even my Acedeck nyx Z1, a year later, still gives me sus jerks mid ride sometime but that didnt start happening until about 500 miles ago and I just hit 3000 miles on it so I at least got my money’s worth their but I still wish the quality was higher for the price point over all
Dang, i didn’t know anything about those quality issues. Production boards still have come a long way since the old boosted days. Diy is all i do now. My oldest diy has thousands of miles on it still running a 10s pack. But all the parts still run well. Once you understand the diy stuff, you’ll never wanna touch a production board ever again.
I have an amateur background in engineering but its mostly basic shit, cabling, soldering, basic circuit maintenance etc but I still need to do more research before I start putting money into DIY
Really pains me how many issues I ran into with my Ares, I was looking forward to that being my street board for so long and the deck itself is stiff along with the faulty bms
Really your back ground in engineering is perfect. If you can solder you’re set. The tricky part is programming the vesc, but you can refer that to ppl like @hoytkid . For a fee he can get on and program a vesc for you thru microsoft TEAMS. And you can just buy the battery pack from places like mboards. Those are the ways i usually do diy. And i got a buddy that got tools i don’t have so he’ll help me out too. But ya the battery pack and programming are the big ones i outsource like that.
Otherwise it’s just parts that build the board such as the chassis (deck, enclosure/ box, truck, wheels, tires or hubs, bushings), then the esc, motors, battery and bms, remote. It’s like Lego in skateboard form. For a low cost cruiser board i like flipsky. They’ll have bundles that have the vesc, motors, and remote for a low cost (around $400). If you want a race board makerx vesc are popular but they don’t have bundles. Also reacher motors are hot on the race market too.
I hope you find your dream board though, i hate it when these production board companies let ppl down and in turn it turns ppl away from esk8 to like ow or euc.
With the amount of bad esk8 stories I have to tell, I’m definitely buying that funwheel down the line. OX ER better not disappoint, I have hella people telling me how much they love the board but I also hear that from Hoyt St owners so I really really don’t like or trust pre builts these days
