Are motors supposed to come with the keyways

Maytech motors can come with made to order shafts, size, KV, magic.

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If you are stuck for a key and don’t want to wait then the shank of a 3mm drill bit serves the purpose. Cut to size and bobs your mothers brother.

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1 sec of angle grinder will convert that motor into a D shaft motor, next problem…

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It’s just I have to hunt around local suppliers in Australia for a key that will fit. Will prob have to order in though because hardware stores in aus have nothing

D shaped pulleys are the future IMO.

Now they just need to use the D shape to secure the bell end and you’ll have solved the second biggest issue with esk8 motors.

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The only problem is having to say “D shaped shaft”

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Is that really a problem? :rofl:

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I just have to embrace D shaped shafts now

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I think we all just need to embrace a little bit of D in our life.

It’ll change ya I swear!

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er.

3mm drill bit.

Some of done need them and prefer to us prefer to use retaining compounds.

D shafts can actually be terrible if you mess then up.

If you never want your pulley to be permanently stuck on the motor be very careful, or don’t use D shafts.

Unnecessary cost imo when other cheaper solutions are available. They do have advantages when they work correctly though.

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When I hit the brakes, I want a piece of metal stopping me and not some glue.

Plus once you’ve tried to remove one of those pulleys that’s been attached with only adhesive, you may change your mind

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Try it you may be surprised Brian. My gear drives are just 680. Its amazing. To get it off just requires a little heat. One of those mini blow torches you would use for a creme brulee.

I did try it.

Keyways FTW. D-shaped are okay but I prefer keyways. Adhesive alone is not okay for me.

You fucked it up then brother.:rofl:

I absolutely did not fuck it up. It’s just a bad idea, imho

Keyways are much easier to work on and there’s actual metal holding you.

I also prefer that the pulleys I’m grabbing are not 300 F (149 C). I could never get one loose until right around the 300 F mark then it starts to loosen up

I absolutely agree with that statement but it does work. I am a bit like you though and like there to be a non rotational element in my pulley system.

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Keyways always end up clicking if you don’t use grubscrews on the motor pulley. And I always lose the tiny fucking grubs.

A dshaped pulley with no grubs held in place by correct spacers and circlips is revolutionary. At least it was for me, nor more fucking around with a 3mm bar of metal.

Definitely needs way better tolerances to work well tho I’ll give ya that!

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I use the tiniest dab of cyanoacrylate (superglue) on the key to stop rattles and Loctite 290 on the grub screws and some of that gets on the shaft too but I don’t put it there on purpose.

Best way I personally have found that’s still servicable.

Oh, and M5 grub screws (not M4) for the win.

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