Yup I found one in a local tool shop for a 10e so I’ll grab it and try “the easy” way first.
Thanks.
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That one I linked is just barely big enough for 15 tooth HTD5M 15mm pulleys. Just barely. But it is big enough.
If it has more teeth or is wider then it probably won’t work.
The prongs being small and skinny on the front side is a key attribute of a pulley puller that you need. I have another one that is terrible and doesn’t work at all because it can never squeeze between the pulley and motor mount plate.
I have one of these brilliant on direct drive bearings too look for wiper remover on eBay.
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Battery Lifetime
What do you guys usually do to get the maximum lifetime and/or performance out of your battery packs (Li-Ion) ?
- Do you always fully charge them ? (I heard it might not be the best to always fully charge)
- Whats the lowest Voltage per cell that you consider ever going to ?
- Do you charge right before you ride - or right after you made the battery empty ?
Cheers
I know it’s not the question you asked, but if battery lifetime is something you value, then at least consider LiFePO4.
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I was always under the false impression that LiFePo4 are more easily to catch fire etc. and I had one bad experience with a LiPo battery back in the days.
Later I found out that Li-Ion supposedly are even more dangerous - so I was quite shocked to get them mixed up.
LiFePO4 are better in every single metric except range per kilogram. They kinda suck at that one. But they blow away all the other metrics, including safety
Unfortunately, range per kilogram is a metric a lot of folks optimize for, so they often lose out. All my short range boards are LiFePO4
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I will consider it for my next upgrade.
However on both of my boards - especially on my Mountainboard I built the battery pack to be as safe as possible - many insulation layers - casted in hotglue and spotwelded and soldered.
However I guess Li-Ion are easier to get a hold of and also a lot cheaper
Anyone bought cells from litechpower. I bought bestech BMS from them several times without issue.
But the cells look like copies not the real deal.
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So in a slight problem
Both USB ports on my makerx are dead
Got a Bluetooth module but only iOS
Any suggestions?
Peeps with Credits cards, what would you recommend more?
Bitwala
n26
Revolut
Usually i do everything with Paypal but since their fees got so high i’m looking for an alternative.
Important are very little fees to mostly USD and GBP from Euro
And i need to be able to pay with it as a Mastercard via webform.
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Just unplug the temperature sensor at this point…
You WILL burn your motors this way eventually though. Those are more cooking pots than motors
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How the hell… are you riding your board in your house connected to the computer?
I think the metr pro guy compiles windows vesc tools that work with windows
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???
Just really need to rerun detection and I sort of managed to yank out both my micro USB ports
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No debt is best. Debit cart and a revolut for their exchange rates
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Again, i don’t know how you managed this. You need to borrow an android for 10 minutes and install the android vesc tool from the vesc project site (it’s free there). Run detection and then manually modify the battery settings for each side because it defaults to 99/-99amps
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The one thing i don’t like from revolut is that they send me a card. I don’t need that. I just want to buy something in usd or gbp maybe Once every 5 months or so and just need a digital one.
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Yeah I get you
Wish there was a vesc tool on ios
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A new one will open immediately after this one closes.
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I don’t use it but i think you can just store the card somewhere and use the app?