Yes sure, it’s just stupid to pay for shipping if i don’t even use it. Why not give me the option for all digital. Maybe i’ll ask the support
edit: it seems that physical is optional
Yes sure, it’s just stupid to pay for shipping if i don’t even use it. Why not give me the option for all digital. Maybe i’ll ask the support
edit: it seems that physical is optional
An open source project and apple won’t ever get along unfortunately. You bought into a closed source system and you know it
Surprised it costs anything really. I never paid for any card i have, even the greateranglia card, they only ask for a name and address and boom, card in post next day
Maybe a tradeoff for the good service they provide. At least get some money out of it.
Don’t you have a laptop with bluetooth
Yeah but it’s not working
The app can’t find the module
Borrowed my moms phone and got it to work
Thnaks
ok do i kneed to go back in firmware to set the cut off at 140c specifically 3.xx whatever that means
Jeffrey Michael Friesen mentioned this as being the default for 2.05 with silver motors as they run hotter (inevitably from the sounds of it)
rn ive got a 40% curve ant its set to max at 27.5a eatch motor or 43kmh and any less fuck it im buying a new set uf motors
my prospective at this point it is what it is
and when they over heat the cut of featuer is a big no thanks i feel at this point, let em burn if thats what they gon be like
No, i meant you can go on the sensor cables and remove the white wire on each. With this you need to understand that you have NO temperature sensor from the motors until you put them back in.
This means that if you run them hotter than what the esc would have cut you out, you run the risk of burning them, and no warranty or will save it and no forum member is to blame.
Otherwise, leave the temperature sensors back in and lower the motor amps until they stop overheating. It’ll be a boring ride though
burn this mofuk to the max
as long as my focbox’s and bttry r good i mean
read this pleas and tell me if this is exactly as he said because i m just looking for instuctions regarding how he did it
So far after all the la/sf/vegas/san diego group rides I’ve noticed the thermal throttling effect three times on extremely steep and long hills (and once while I was towing a friend home uphill after dead battery). Mainly this resembles just a sight decrease in speed/power that goes away once the hill ends. Definitely rode the board hard in SF through some crazy hills with no problems. Keep in mind these are fully sealed hub motors, the benefits of this are that no dirt or debris is making its way inside your motor (no rocks to get jammed in the can and throw you
) but it also means no airflow over the windings so a bit more heat buildup should be expected when comparing to unsealed outrunners. Overall I think the heat is well managed and the huge amount of copper in the stator keeps winding resistance low which prevents heat generation in the first place.
The internal thermistors line up with the default thermistor values expected with 3.xx vesc FW, and I recommend running motor temp limits of 85 C min and 140 max. My testing has shown that with these limits somewhere around 110C the motor current is reduced sufficiently that the motors never exceed 110 while remaining rideable over everything but the steepest of hills. You’re unlikely to ever reach these temps in anything except the worst case scenarios. Really should have some data plots to show you guys, I’ll do better in the future.
In my opinion, if you are average body weight these hubs will provide tons of power; they will be hot to the touch after a hard ride but the temps are within the design spec of the motor. They are the most powerful hub motors I’ve had a chance to ride. The only true hub motor that can match power with many of the belt driven designs.
well I might as well run them in the ground as you know more then I do
It says in every single sentence:
Throw your trash hubs out of the window, get something of quality and live a fucking happy life without this unfixable piece of esk8 shame.
do u know how to do this tho ?
like this

I gave you a way to remove throttling and every possible warning i could that it will burn your motor. Please don’t blame anyone from this forum if you do end up burning them.
By the way, my belt driven motors are lukewarm on straights and get only a bit hot, let’s say within 55° on the steepest hill (rail bridge) i have in my area. Maybe change from hubs sometime?
yus but it sould like he still had minimal thortling i just wanna make sure i do it to a T so i dont break my shit as this is my last option as im unwilling to accecpt anything slower then 45
Why would I get a “one of your vescs has too old firmware” message going into remote setting in the vesc tool, if I just re installed it on both of them?