Sensors are active components, but any bipolar latching sensor will work.
AH3772 from Diodes Incorporated or
TLV49611TQXBXA1 from Infineon look like good candidates.
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The ring pcb seems to be caked in epoxy in there. Are there no other components (on the side of the pcb i canât see) that would stop working if i put a hall sensor with different specs?
Is it just a straight path from sensor to external cable?
Edit: while at it⌠why are there 6 separate values on the hall table when there are only 3 components with 3 dedicated wires?
There are 6 possible codes formed by the three outputs.
001 010 100 101 110 011
000 and 111 are invalid.
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ok did a test run a little better but i can tell i still need to set it to 140 cut off, is thier a way to bypass the 120c max ?
Youâll definitely break something setting it this high.
I wish we knew your original settings.
If youâre gonna run these R2 hubs hot How hot do you really think itâs safe to run them? at what temp do the adhesives melt and the sleeves just slide off? Youâre in sketchy territory following that guys post of letting them run up to 110c. butâŚ
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what do you advise, i just dont want my powerband bouncing from blasting to crawling shortly after . should i just go 20 a eatch side ?
And i dont trust it as i feel the throttling is casusing sme unsafe things
rn its 27.5 on both side
and 15 breaking
we recommend getting a set of motors that arenât ridiculously notorious for overheating. Raptor 2 hubs are TERRIBLE for overheating.
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Sorry bruh, research is a good idea for a lot of things.
Maybe you can kick them down the road to a second-generation sucker.
yup shoulda did DIY
whats should i clock it 2 to keep it resonable
See, I donât know. Your settings are already less than half what most of us run for normal motors. Less than a third in some cases.
And youâre still getting overheating.
Youâre asking for fixes for a deeply flawed product. No amount of advice or changes in settings can overcome terrible design.
Which is a blessing in disguise, because if you did get them to run at a sustained higher speed, the urethane will cook from all the heat and can come flying off in chunks.
Part of DIY is accepting your mistakes and moving on from them.
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I canât advise you on what temp to tune here. I have no idea whatâs safe. it all sounds hot to me.
I think I would do a sharper cutoff that still starts where I want it to start warning me and ends not letting me get past what I thought was dangerous. even if the cutoff is from blasting to crawling. the temperature throttling is itâs only protection against actually getting too hot.
so Iâm not a fan of the trick that guy did to get a more mellow throttling by setting the upper limit super high.
I think you should mellow out the whole thing. Set your motor current settings lower and just treat it as a slower board that gets too hot if you push it too hard. use it to get around while you build your next board. or plan an upgrade to a different drive train.
ay sounds smart, not sure how to tho
also do you think all this fukkery with breaking and cutting out at times do to overheating ? i get 1 an 6 rides
If I had to guess Iâd say yes. but you should be triggering over_temp faults to get cutouts. without shutting it off hook it up to vesc-tool and check each motor for faults. ( go into terminal and type faults )
for funsies. I played with desmos to illustrate the linear throttling. (90% sure this is accurate, though I never read it in the code. )
click through to desmos and you can play with your own values:
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can i just copy this ? seems reasonable
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My calliber 2âs feel wobbly at higher speeds, how do i work out which bushings to get that would suit my weight etc?
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Consult the oracle:
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