Iāll keep it mindā¦ I guess for now, Iāll just have to get used to this sound and loss of energy as there seems to be nothing I can do about itš
I know who is guiltyā¦ Omg I want to *********
The metal piece is completely fu****
Seems like I overtightened it a ālittle bitā?
What are we looking at? Your Wheel pulley plate?
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@xsynatic
Yes, right. I think its the source of all the wobbleā¦
Agree?
Itās more warped in reality, when layed down on a table, one side is not even touching the table because its so damaged ^^
This is one of many reasons I abandoned bolt-on pulleys a long time ago.
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Guess Iāll have to learn some things the hard way 
Thanks to all your efforts and support !
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The only bolt-on pulleys Iāve ever had good luck with are these things.
And of course, they donāt sell them anymore. I have three of those. One is on a shelf for sale and the other two are pending disassembly and sale. The only reason I need to sell them is because they are only 36 tooth.
I have another bolt-on pulley on the same shelf, but I wonāt list it for sale because I think itās a piece of junk and is impossible to get/keep aligned.
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Hmā¦ i did some extension cables for motor phase wires and iām running into some fucky behaviour:
At first the bullets were overheating, braking at low speed was cutting off. Detection was quite different between motors (~15ohm difference and 4 amp)
I went home and soldered all the male tips to those spring rings thingies and made sure all previous solders are in good condition. Detection is within .05 identical between motors after the fix. Nothing overheats either.
Now the board isnāt completely cutting off, but at very low speed (3000erpm where i feel the hall sensors starting), the board sometimes brakes until the wheels are skidding (desired behaviour for my testing) and sometimes justā¦ skips. I think one side just gives up and starts cogging, while the other side gets me at full stop.
What is going on?
A similar thing (sometimes, randomly) happens under low acceleration from a stop, although itās been going on for long before. It just skips for half a second, like it forgets how to count or something.
Total length of cable from esc to motor now sits at around 25cm. Previously it would half pull one connector out under hard turning
What esc and mode are you running?
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Maker-x dual, sensored foc, vx1 remote on uart with smart reverse.
Fw is 5.1, just after that pwm hotfix after 5.0 release
Personally Iād try turning off the smart reverse as a start since itās a low speed issue. Do you have any traction control enabled?
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But i do like that uber silent slow reverse thingy 
No traction control. I never turned it on as i donāt see itās benefit on the street.
Iāll get out in a bit, do a few laps to discharge the battery then start testing hard braking with no smart reverse
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Hey fellas, I have a question. How much power can you run through Carvon V3 SpeedDrive motors? VESC Tool detects 40.23A
@atlesk8 Maybe you recall?
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The skipping seems to happen exactly at the boundary between sensored (3000erpm) and unsensored (3000erpm+).
Smart reverse is disabled @Venom121212
I screen recorded with sound, the behaviour should be quite obvious:
I repeatedly accelerated over 4000erpm and applied brakes straight after. In this recording the erpm switch is set at 4000, where itās seen spiking back to 0, sometimes even positive amps (probably glitchā¦ i hope).
Also, re-ran detection on the street just to make sure:
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I apologize for clogging this thread but it seems that itās just the sensors that are really shitty (flipsky motorsā¦ eh).
Fix: i reduced the erpm switch to the lowest point where i can get a smooth start. For 6355 190kv motors it seems to be 2000erpm for both motors.
This way i can launch smoothly and apply full, smooth brakes until i am at around 1-2km/hr, which in a dangerous situation would be very important.
This setting is found under motor configuration - foc - hall sensors - sensorless erpm. Default is 4000. I hope it helps anyone searching for this issue in the future.
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fuckā¦that reminds of the possibility that my soon to come flipshit GB motors might have sucky sensor that dieā¦I love sensored so much (Fight me Brian) especially on my mtb, urethane donāt care that much. But even standing on a hill and being able to justā¦go is wonderful.
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Itās usually the connectors that are shit.
Haggy sensor wires or bust.
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Do you happen to know if the sensors inside the motor are justā¦ dumb devices? Letās say i do a thing and put better hall sensors in thereā¦ would it work?
@Gamer43 for now i am absolutely done spending money on this board. Thereās always some small thing to add and itās scary how much money still goes in. I will note your advice though. Future purchase if the time comes
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Should be. They are their own seperate device from the motor that work with the motor (hopefully i didnāt fuck that info up?) Thats why you can put new ones in (better ones)
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