It was 300 degrees Celsius 
I guess it really is the missing Flux / rosin
Trust me, I held it to the bullet connector for minutes 
The solder just will flow over it, like a raindrop over an umbrella
When i solder bullet connectors, i set my iron between 370°C (small bullet) and 410°C (big bullet).
It allows for a quick heating of the connector.
The spike speaks for itself : itâs not hot enough.
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I tried 400 degree to, with a flat tip to help spread the heatâŚ
My soldering iron is pretty bad though⌠Just uses a pot to set temperature⌠Donât know if it really was that hot, but it made the wire ends dark/black 
I have this problem with more or less each wire size etc⌠As said:
In most cases it doesnât end up like this, the solder just flows off the connector / wire like a raindrop
I use lead free solder
I sadly only have soldering fat, which is not usable for electronics but copper bars
The iron doesnât make the welder, but you canât do anything good with a crapy iron.
Get yourself a decent one and itâll be far easier !
Any soldering iron with digital temp setting will be good enough.
Something like that :
You donât need anything fancy, i paid mine something like 20 bucks years ago. (A better one like a TS100 might be easier to use nevertheless, but more expensive)
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Ok, that could be silly question but I am having problems to understand it, actually
When setting amps at vesc tool you can set your motors to, lets say, 60A and battery max to 25AâŚlike, how? Where are those âextra ampsâ coming from? 
For me it makes sense only when batt and motor amps will be on the same level.
Looking for some simple explanation 
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You want your motor max amp to be higher than you battery max - always!
This makes sense when thinking about it:
The VESC gets power and delivers it to the motor.
Sure, it shouldnât be able to promise the motor power the battery canât provide. These values arenât what you will hit in real life, it is just marking a maximum.
So if you have a 100A max discharge battery and you set your max discharge to 60A in the Software, youâll just limit your battery output.
If you battery discharge setting is on 60A but your battery only does 30A max, nothing will limit 
As said:
Never put a smaller or same value for the motor as for the battery
You can find the max A rating for your motor in its description from where you bought it.
Please keep your VESC max A in mind. Mine is a 4.12 which is said to work safely to 30/35A
Anything above it can be critical, although the seller advertise their VESC to be capable of 60A
So just look what your bottleneck is - the VESC or your battery, and set that as the max discharge of the battery.
30A battery, 60A Vesc - > 30A Max Discharge
80A battery, 60A VESC - > 60A Max Discharge
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Flux paste or liquid will change your life 
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Ordered some from AliExpress⌠Should arrive in a month 
Together with new solder etc! Should solve my problems
The sad thing about diy is that you always have to wait for your last part(s) to arriveâŚ
I have a half functioning esk8 now, missing proper battery plus enclosure and motor pulley, along with second motor mountâŚ
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Dear Christ, those electrical things are always making me nervous while setting vescs.
I was thinking about it today, because one of my FOCBOXes has blown DRV and I was trying to use my EMTB on single drive.
Batt max 40A
Motor max 60A
But, to be honest, I can not believe how weak this board is with one motor
12s1p 25Ah 5C
6374 190KV
1:4,45 gear ratio
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That gear ratio is reeeeaally small. I will have two 6354s with 60A Max on the battery, split on both VESCs with 30A setting⌠And I have a 2.4 gear ratio.
I would never recommend a 12S1P batteryâŚ
10S2P would be much better in this case for range and power!
Maybe consider a lipo if youâre on a budgetâŚ
Edit:
Blown DVR here too :))))
These things are more sensitive than some girls ^^
Yeah, Iâm also shaking each time I turn my board on through my power supply 
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Its a long story with my battery, will elaborate on it when I will (finally) make my boardâs topic
Thatâs why my setup is 12s1p
Edit:
Range? Somewhere between 60-80km on dual drive
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yup 10amp rated⌠them are the good onesâŚ
what Iâve done lately is to use the 2.1mm for 12s boards and 2.5mm for 10s boards⌠that way I canât fat finger a 12s charger into a 10s board when Iâm fukking having a blonde momentâŚ
What cells are those? Look great for emtb if the amp draw rating is genuine
Whatâs up? How did the test ride and temperature checking go?
thereâs a temperature tab that would have made a nicer picture.
I see 71c in the black temperatures section on the bottom. if what youâre feeling is vesc throttling Iâm going to say itâs your motor temp hitting it. they cool off when not under load reasonably quickly so if it took a while to get hooked up it could have been a lot warmer.
what are your Motor temp cutoff start/end values?
note you have to hit the end value to get a fault, and your motor would cut out while youâre riding. so itâs likely if you got an actual fault youâd know.
Keep improving your info to spam ratio. youâre getting a tad better and your questions will get better responses.
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massively throttling at times i can hardly get 20 kmh on a flat with 50% battery
also had it pin max throttle on me and breaking only half worked for a good 4 terrifying seconds
if theirs any areas in the vesc tool lmk ill make a video
those symptoms do not sound like thermal throttling issues. something else must be wrong.
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You HAVE TO use rosin core solder like this
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BGY99SN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01
The part needs to melt the solder, not the iron. Think about that, and understand what it means.
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Someone answer my dumb question. Is 18t motor pulley compared to a 16t pulley on a 36t wheel pulley a lot different? Less torque or more ?
110mm TB wheels
Bigger motor pulley make less torque but more speed
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