Is loctite decent for securing motor magnets? I went for a long ride on my second day with the board and flipshite motor has some grinding in it at low rpm (0-3500erpm. 4000 is completely gone, it sounds worse in reverse).
Long story short itâs completely apart now, no magnet comes apart if i stick a screwdriver on and pull it, but 3 of them have some scratches near the bell opening
I think I read somewhere that could be a bearing issueâŚwonât hurt to check them.
think I should set it to ptc 1k at 100c as its at 25 c as motor temp sensor type ?
Issue Majore performance loss after about 2km and hubs are hardly warm
anyone wanna confirm before i do it ? xD
Simple version Battery Current max REGEN goes to the battery. a safe max battery regen based on the specs you list is -3100ma / 1000 * 5p = -15.5 Amps.
Because braking is done in short burst you can be advised to set it to a larger value. I donât have the expertise to advise you there. so Iâm sure someone will chime in. Iâve seen double used a fair bit tho.
Motor Current Max Brake, my super fuzzy simple version: is current generated in the motor. it can be more because itâs kinda scaled by by speed before it hits the battery. roughtly at full speed you canât get more than battery max regen of braking. but at lower speeds the motor current can be higher and brake harder, but the current at the battery wonât be as high as at the motor.
take that with a grain of salt, maybe someone will say it clearer than me. :). but the gist is there.
ohh ok thx. That explains why i went from -24A to -12A max brake regen and my brakes sucked at speed but as i slowed down they got strongerâŚinteresting
Is there a chance this is a neutral cure silicone but not the silicone that would be recommended for assembling P Packs?
No, that is Silicone 2* in the top right. You want Silicone 2*+. Thatâs not it, but looks 99% like the correct one. Just not it.
this 
and this
Set it to whatever you need to get brakes that are strong enough to stop you as you wish.
So long as youâre not being towed by a car with the brakes on, youâll be fine.
âBattery minimum currentâ is braking strength at higher speeds
âMotor minimum currentâ is braking strength at lower speeds
So glad I didnât take the Home Depot guys word and roll with itâ:joy:
ok so i changed the motor temp type to 100c ptc and now i was riding and it tryed bucking me off the bored an set the cut off at 95c it rode just down the street
sigh
I cleaned up everything, loctited, etc etc, let it dry a bit, put everything together and the motor slight grinding sound is gone. But now i have another problem.
Under 4000erpm, below which hall sensors kick in, both motors make an odd noise. Like a shaving machine slowed down. By all means, the sensored start works, but it seems odd how jittery it is. Like it overshoots, then brakes, then does it all over again x20-30 times a second. Amp draw under 4000erpm is also constantly at around 2-3amps while over that is a solid 1, mostly 0.
Is this normal? Are sensors meant to work like this?
You can quickly and easily notice that Home Depot has no idea how to engineer vehicles.
You can tell because they have one single drawer of metric hardware in an entire hardware store full of FUB crap. You canât even get a tape measure that has metric on it. You have to order those online also. That right there tells you that you shouldnât trust a single thing that they say when it comes to engineering electric vehicles. Not a single word.
The only piece of esk8 that I get at big-box hardware stores, is GE Silicone 2*+. Itâs in the paint section.
Literally not one single other piece. Itâs all ordered online.
â
â
Freedom Unit Bullshit
Just ordered a flipsky vx2. Currently have a vx1. I see both are 2.4GHz and the board looks the same. Will I need to change the receiver or just pair/settings and go?
Itâs really hard to tell unloaded on the bench, the system behaves differently when you add a load.
What is the problem you are trying to solve?
Well, the original problem was grinding motor, almost guaranteed loose magnet or dirty bearing, that seems gone now, but running some low rpm tests i discovered this weird behaviour. I have no experience of what is normal hall sensor behaviour.
It makes me wonder if i maybe reordered hall sensor pins wrong (maker-x esc has connectors mirrored⌠lovely). I donât even know if detection would fail if a/b/c wires are the wrong way :c
For me, normal hall sensor behaviour is âfailing as soon as you hit one puddleâ
I would recommend not using sensors and using FOC in HFI sensor mode
