not sure you budget but if you want cheap, you can get a mini remote and then make a mod to make it smaller ( there is a thread here, search avio mini remote mod) or if you want something more classy you could go for the Hoyt St Puck remote for 100$.
Also just edit you first post to fit all you words because making a new post for one word is obnoxious lol
I just wanna smash my fukkin shit thats how impressed I am with my purchase
Dude please lol
It clutters the thread and makes it a nuisance to navigate to things
srry im just so frustrated rn and i never get pissed , imma go with the https://diyelectricskateboard.com/collections/remote-controller/products/torqueboards-2-4ghz-nano-remote-controller
1x MALE TO MALE SERVO CONNECTOR
1x [Dual ESC CAN bus Connecto
1x [Dual ESC XT90 Parallel Connector
where good to go in these regards?
why soldering? Also the vx1 doesnât cut out?
edit: you mean soldering for the battery gauge? Donât bother, get a metr or something. Worth more for what you pay
Vx1 >>>> nano
ok , wish thiers a way with out soldering, guess il just go vx1
Whats a metr ? link
ty guys really if it wasnt for u guys id have nothing
Thatâs just the way it is. I couldnât care less about that. My metr whispers me the voltage in my ear when i want it.
also this guy is your best friend. Use him, he wants it.
whats the cheapest solder kit man can buy going with a $20 basic amazon one
fukkit imma just do it
Mine cost 17⏠so yeah, thats fine for a while
god giving up the vx2 is going to be so painful, fuk its so nice( someone plz before its 2 late)
Also just to confirm what are stock enertion r2.0 motor setup values ? good to know i feel at this point
How do I post a [WTB] [US] thread? I donât see the option. I just want to see if anyone is selling some bergmiesters and pulleys.
It means the range is smaller for same weight pack.
Itâs the only bad thing about LiFePO4. Iâve been using LiFePO4 for years on my highest-mileage skates.
You can only go about half as far, but literally everything else about them is better, and they last a really long time.
what do you recomend ? dose the new one come with the split connots so i can avoid using canbus all together x
depends on if you use UART or PWM.
Uart no.
PWM No if you have a metr (for example) to program it on the go.
PWM yes if you donât.
Hi there. I bumped your account so you can post and message freely. To post your parts wanted ad, go here:
https://forum.esk8.news/c/esk8-parts-market/parts-wanted/20
Welcome!
Not to sound rude @mikEEE but it sounds like you need to do some more reading of the forum before continuing further into your DIY journey. I can completely understand your frustrations as I have had my only board on the bench for the last 18 months with no end in sight. I remember when I first joined DIY esk8 I just read everything for a month or two before before even making my first comment, let alone actually building. The information contained here is indispensable, and will allow you to troubleshoot with ease. The search bar is great, and the big brains contained here are also super helpful.
Feel free to send me a PM and we can work through your issues mate 
Yah @xsynatic sorry I am using some kester basically same thing it looks like maybe slightly lower rosin content think it says 1.1% but it works well enough.
I use a Weller iron wesd51 that I like but think any iron that gets hot enough can do, hear good things about the hakko as well. I set it to around 400C typically but will bump temp like 20-30 degrees for bigger parts like bullets. Iâm also pretty ocd about wiping off the tip in a solder cleaner thing here and try to add a bit of solder to the tip before I let it cool so the tip doesnât oxidize.
Prefer the kester but these both work fine for me really.
Update whinning sound fixed on motors but no telemtry on vx2
