Archived: the OG noob question thread! 😀

How could i not set up the failsafe with your Guide in existence? Yes, once the remote turns off the throttle goes to the center position = no throttle.

Wires are fine. I assumed it’s the low power warning because every time the remote automatically released the throttle the RED power led blinked once

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:rofl::rofl::rofl:

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Oh yeah that’s a low battery.

I tried to post a warning about using certain types of AA batteries in the remote are more dangerous than other kinds because they die quickly as opposed to gradually, but a couple guys on the [US] west coast shitposted my entire thread until it was useless. @BillGordon

What batteries are you using in it?

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The build I am forming has 18mm wheel pulleys. My question is if I can only get 15mm motor pulleys and belts will this cause issues?

It will not cause any issues

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I’m using some generic cheapo AAs i had laying around for probably 1 or 2 years. In fact the only 2 AA batteries in my house except my single rechargable AA.

i’ll snap a pic in a sec.

The slower they die, the better. Definitely not “Energizer Ultimate Lithium” because those stay high until near the end then die really quickly

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Its from an 8 pack for 2 bucks. Its the own brand from a drug store.

I put it with ~1.3x V
and now it’s at ~1.22v

Ah yeah those are good.

I carry a tiny screwdriver and two extra AA in my pack also, along with the skate tool, a bearing, pliers, and small amount of other things

And yes, I’ve made it home before solely because I had one extra bearing with me

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Storytime? I wanna hear how in the world a spare bearing saved you

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Same. I trying to replace the screw with a hex screws so i can use it with my wera kit i carry around when driving.

also my always with me pack.

So far i only needed belts…lots of 'em…

+ my wera kit and a small pump.



When i ride my hub board i carry… nothing.

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Who are those guys that custom make visors for full face MTB helmets?

Running into a spacing issue, how dumb is it to have a battery that terminates in bullets and split the input lead for a Unity to have matching bullets? I imagine as long as I terminate them in the opposite bullet it will be fine

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What happens when those bullets touch Zach…

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With bullets you have the very terrible risk of shorting them together by mistake and this could end up being pretty expensive. Like, burning your house expensive.

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The battery is 2 blocks of 5s with a bullet on each end, I’m thinking that if the positive is always male and the negative is female I can’t make too many mistakes?

If they’re far apart then maybe. But there’s a reason battery terminals are put in physical connectors that can’t touch.

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I know, but the wires are not gonna be easy to run with this…

That’s the max space I have, matching cell block on the other side

If I had that problem, I’d only consider using bullets if the red was really short and couldn’t reach that side, and the black was real long. Don’t have them near one another. But it’s going to be a large risk to work on. Triple check everything and ALWAYS tape or insulate with heatshrink every one wire BEFORE you start working on another wire.

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I wanna mount a 10s8p on the bottom of my CGT deck. Any danger in drilling into a CF deck…structurally is that a bad thing. I’m considering changing decks. compartment is to small to be of any use imo.